Hi all,

I have just bought a Chummy project with a very rotten floor pan, does any one have a drawing for the floor pan?

Tim

The cable for my rev. counter broke - does any of the A7 suppliers provide this kind of cable ?

   

   

   

best regards
Oliver

As a neophyte with body repair that must be plated, I have a question. My radiator cowl is dented. I know that straightening will not eliminate all the dent. So now in the day when body lead here in the US seems to be made of Unobtanium, is there a filler that can be effectively chromed?

Erich in Seattle

Starts: 07-10-2017
Ends: 08-10-2017

VSCC Welsh Rally - Presteigne

Anyone going to the Welsh Rally this year? Trying to get some sort of running order or day plan but not a member of the VSCC... Has anyone got any event details?

Oh dear! Whilie running the engine on my Nippy I recently noticed traces of black oil coming up past the centre cylinder head stud accompanied by occasional bubbles. So "off with its head" and go for a decoke, the first for 10 years and 3000 miles most of which were to Beaulieu and back in 2012. It certainly needed that; I've never seen such a roasted gasket before!  All was cleaned up nicely with my grandson's enthusiastic help and the valves reground and fitted. Then when it came to re-fitting the head, an original 9E Nippy head, I noticed it was cracked! All the way across the top of the casting from the sparking pliug hole, round the edge and partially along the flat surface over cylinder No. 2. Ripe expletives!
So, while sorting out what to do about this - repair with metal stiching? new head? - I decided to fit the Supalloy head that the Nippy originally had when I obtained it in 1968. This went without a hitch - nice layer of grease on the HC gasket, cool the head in the freezer and fit it while cold, run the engine. Perfect! Then fill with cooling water and run engine again. Perfect again! Lovely smell as the excess gasket grease that had squeezed into the cylinders burned off!

A couple of days later the car would not start, it seemed almost like a kick-back as if the ignition were far too far advanced. A bit of investigation showed that water was leaking into the cylinders, particularly 1,2 and 3 and to a lesser degree No. 4 as well. Of course some water also got into the sump! What mystifies me is that the gasket should have been so very leaky. From "reading" the gasket it appears that the water may have been emerging from the central water passage, next to the central head stud since this passage in the Supalloy head is not concentric with the passage in the gasket and, in addition, is slightly corroded on one side. The surface area of the gasket that should seal this area is very small. I am also wondering whether I applied too much grease to the gasket and that the thick grease layer could be burned away from the cylinder(s) to the water passage(es) thus forming an escape for the water. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? 

What I also noticed while examining all this is that neither a low compression nor a high compression gasket really fits either cylinder head properly. The LC gasket has more "meat", covers the sealing head surfaces better but also overlaps the edges and the head side of the gasket is exposed to the gases in the cylinders. I think I may have originally used LC gaskets with the supalloy head when I first had the car since I still have one of those non-copper (fibre?) LC gaskets and I do recall that this type of gasket was the only one that ever "blew" back in the 70s. All things considered it seems to me that the HC gasket is the most appropriate though two sources have advised me to fit an LC-shaped gasket.
In all this I should mention that I have not checked how flat the heads are - that would now be only relevant for the Supalloy head.

In the meanwhile I see that new 9E heads are available from Seven County Austins - maybe that's the way to go!

I'd really appreciate any remarks and ideas about this business. Thank you everyone for your help!
Best wishes
Steve

Hi, a question for any trials competitors out there. I plan to have a go at a 750mc A7 trial next month. I've never competed before, so I'm just hoping to have some fun and learn something!
I've had a look at the regs, and there is one technical requirement that I need some advice on. Could someone please help me on the requirement for extra or "double" throttle return springs. My special is basically mechanically a 1927 chummy with original up-draft zenith bronze carb and original chummy throttle linkage. There is already the standard return spring on the linkage. Do I just need to add an extension return spring onto the carb throttle arm (SU style) to conform?  (Making two springs in total) or do both springs need to be actually on the carb itself?  Thanks for any advice 

Robin

Hi all

I've just joined.

I have just lifted a rather tired 1938 Ruby body from a chassis and have on order from Rod Yates, one of his "Ulster" bodies.

Does anyone make new radiator cowl/surrounds?

Any help will be much appreciated.

I am in Ditchling East Sussex.

For my sins I make "Morgan" style 3 wheelers at www.aerocyclecars.com

regards

Arthur

New Bonnet Hinges

I bought lengths of stainless steel hinges, with brass
Central rods from Vintage Car Parts for my GE Cup.

These are super quality and fasten easily to new Bonnet tops and
Bonnet sides without the need for rivets, giving a clean look 
To a Chummy or Special Bonnet.

As they are off cuts they are 22.5" long
So may suit only Chummy bonnets. Not sure
how long these are?

Otherwise could be used where ever you need a strong
Flat hinge.

For sale at £30 plus postage in a tube plus £7.50 or collect.

Email me if you need more details.

Bill G/ AllAlloyCup

  IMG_1668.JPG (Size: 77.54 KB / Downloads: 185)

I would be interested in the opinion of the collective on this publication

Date: 01-10-2017

Twyford Waterworks Autumn Rally, Hampshire

Hazeley Road, Twyford, Hampshire, SO21 1QA

11AM-4PM

Alongside the incredible pumping station with it's beautiful Buildings, housing 3 1906 Babcock & Wilcox water tube Boilers; 1914 Hathorn Davey triple expansion pumping engine; steam plant; lime production equipment including 5 bottle kilns; water softening plant; and industrial narrow gauge railway, there will be visiting exhibits of Traction engines, cars, stationary engines, demonstrations and displays.
The water works are expected to be back in steam next year after much hard work, a summary of the project can be found on the news page of their website.

More information on the waterworks and the open days they run can be found on their website HERE, and include some photographs of the site.