A couple of problems, probably me as I'm not good at graphical interfaces.
I thought the old forum was still accessible and wanted to add a post to a thread from the latter days of it. However I can't locate it.
Also after viewing 'New Posts' or 'Today's Posts' I couldn't get back to all posts without going out and coming back in.

Jim

Starts: 24-08-2017
Ends: 28-08-2017

Great Dorset Steam Fair

Tarrant Hinton, Dorset, DT11 8HX
"The World’s largest heritage and cultural event showcasing Great Britain’s national industrial, agricultural and leisure history."

If you've never been, watch the video on their website to get just a small flavour of the event. HERE

There are usually a number of sevens in attendance in the classic car display, though as far as I am aware, it is pre-registered exhibitors only.

This year the event is on the bank holiday weekend and continues on the Monday.

I am trying to sort out the rear axle half shaft changes for Spares.

From my notes the axle diameter at the differential casing end was increased from the original Axle No BO 18 at 7/8" to Axle No BO 128 at 57/64" from Chassis 126384 (excluding 126386 and 126467 to 126470)  I believe Chassis 126384 was produced at Longbridge January 1931. 


The diff case bush were also changed from BO23 to a larger bore BO129 to suit. As far as I understand there were no other case changes.

When the Axle half shaft diameter at the differential casing end increased from 7/8" to 57/64" in 1931, the 'List of Production Changes' shows the Axle length as 22 1/2". (our Spares List shows 22 1/8")
  
Our 'Spares List' also lists the longer Axle half shaft at 23 1/2" long coming in at 1932, but the 'List of Production Changes' doesn't specify a half shaft length, only noting the new 'D' type rear axle introduced in September 1932. The 'Austin Spare Parts' book shows this new Axle half shaft as BO136.
 
I would like help confirming the Half Shaft length details.       

Cheers Tony.

Hello All,

The car had some really quite large louvres in the nose cowl and bonnet, measuring 12" tall by 1 and 3/4" wide, ever since I started building the car reproduction of which have given me pause for thought. This weekend, I realised that the time had come to get on with it and have a go at making them:

Using my powered fret saw, having marked the outline, I firstly cut two jigs from 20mm thick MDF, a lower and upper, between which I planned to sandwich the aluminium panels. 

   

I mounted the lower former onto another larger piece of MDF and ensured the two formers would align properly each time with a couple of dowels, which are positioned so they will not interfere with the panels when they are in the jig.

   

Next up was to make a former to impress the panel with, I carved this out of some relatively hard wood

   

Having made the jig I was getting ready for the moment of truth; I firstly cut the slot into the panel for each louvre, these being for the cowling cheek, which unlike the bonnet, only has two louvres., I decided that given the size of the louvre I should anneal the area before attempting to stretch it in the jig. I then carefully positioned the panel and clamped the whole assembly together

   

Moment of truth! I placed the former into the fist slot, resting on the still pristine panel, then, using a rubber mallet, applied some persuasion

   

It all looked OK in the jig, so I unclamped it all and was pleased to find I had my first louvres. Initial worries that they would look wrong a different to the originals evaporated and I am pleased that they have just the look I was seeking.

   

   


Regards, Mark.

"1929 Austin 7 AD Chummy chassis project. SOLD 4 x Chummy steel wings, repairable, 5 x good 19" wheels, perfect chassis*( clear chassis no) , cow horns, steel framed period (1950's?) Trials body. Good condition original brass Sports Radiator shell, period core, front* and rear Axles*, brakes* and Hubs*, springs* and sh/abs*. Early coil engine complete with 3 speed gearbox, , manifolds & carb, untouched since out of running car, prop shaft, good steering column and wheel. Some lamps and instruments, Parts marked * derusted and hammerited. All parts dry stored for 40 years!  Optional GE Cup wooden body frame kit. 

Would make good basis to restore to an AD Chummy, GE Cup or Ulster type special?

No starter or dynamo, no handbrake or crosshaft , no paperwork , but as all period parts should get an age related no.  

Located near Berwick on Tweed. Delivery possible £1/mile . Photos of parts on request from [/email] or call .

This posting will be used exclusively for links to Austin Seven photo collections on Pinterest.

It is a view only posting but can be added to by contacting me at the e-mail address below.



AD Tourers

PD Tourers

AE Tourers

Bits and Bobs

APE Tourers

RN Vans

Pearl Cabriolets

C- Cab Vans


RP Vans

AVH Vans

AVJ Vans

AVK Vans

Rosengart Vans


Rosengarts

RP Saloons

Mk1 Ruby

Mk 2 Ruby

Ruby (misc)

Grasshoppers

Gordon England Cup Models

Swallow Saloons


R Type Saloons

I decided to resurrect a thread from the old forum which was often interesting, it is a great place to post information about the small jobs, runs, etc that you have been up to.

To kick off I have been giving my Nippy a bit of a birthday, the old seats were in a terrible state so once I had repaired the metal frames, my brother in law Kirk who is an upholsterer offered to help me recover them. We have tried to where possible use authentic materials and construction, the following pictures show some of the sequence we have been going through.

   
   
   
   
   

Good evening all.
£521 was paid tonight for a bronze u/d carb. Is it me or are some prices going crazy?
However, having recently sold an item on an on-line auction site which realised more than I expected, I am now faced with a buyer who realising they have over paid is using all sorts of spurious arguments to claim a refund.
Caveat emptor.
Regards from the Creative county Staffordshire.
Stuart

Due to my car's propensity to share the contents of the sump to the world at large, the engine mounting rubbers do not fare well and swell and split.

Does anyone supply a synthetic replacement, otherwise known as a polybush? If not I might just buy some poly bar and turn myself a few. The worst affected appear to the the top rubber doughnuts.

Hi 
After at last getting my A7 Ruby (1937) running again after a long rest I manouvered it on the drive and broke a half shaft.
Removing the axle seems reasonably straightforward and I am following the advice to leave the torque tube attached and disconnect the rear universal joint.
On examination it seems that unbolting would be very fiddly and long winded as there is little room to manoeuvre.An easier solution seems to be to remove the circlips from one of th UVjoint "pins" .
Looking at some old service books it appears that it may have needle roller bearings which if they are not in a cage could be difficult to keep together in which case I will have to remove the bolts
Am I missing something or is there an easy way.
Hopefully somebody will say yes and tell me

Ian