1938/39 back axle
Hi all. the left hand thread nut that holds the dual purpose bearing onto the pinion has a lock washer with an internal tab that sits in a groove in the thread of the pinion. Would you but the tab facing backwards under the bearing or forwards under the nut? The tab does not seem to want to go all the way in under the bearing (my initial thought of correct way round). My thinking is that if tab is under nut it could get pulled round when undoing/tightening nut and jamb in nut thread and pinion thread.
I have now moved onto the brakes on my (easy project to restore special x#!!*) having now taken engine out and body off!! The brake cross shaft was seized solid and after much heat , copious amounts of WD40 and cuss words that even I didn't know I knew I finally got the cotter pins out and the cross shaft off.
can any one tell me if the compensating beam is fixed rigid to the balance lever as on mine or should it pivot ie move on the pivot pin, and there did not apear to be any felt washers or remnants of ,anywhere on the shaft , should there be or did some 7's not have them I do not know what model the chassis is from but it is reputed to be 1934 chassis number not apparent anywhere. if it is advisable to have felt washers how thick should they be ? Ihave seen an article on a blog showing the varous components including felt washers.I have also seen an article by Trevor Sharp to improve braking by puting bigger expander rollers on the brake cones does this work and is it worth doing ?
Thanks in advance (still fettling away and looking for the horizon)
Clivesu
My first post on the new forum ,there was a thread running on the Bravenet forum about running in on 30 oil with the Australian pistons (ex Holmsdale sevens ) and what milage to change the oil . I have done 301 miles on the oil , is it time to change it , and can I now use Halfords Classic 20 /50 ?.
As a bit of a novice, I'd be glad of advice, please. Driving my 1930 Box this morning developed a knocking on overrun. Knocking slows as car slows. Same noise irrespective of clutch engagement. Seems to be midway in car but hard to tell. Noise is there under slight load but less pronounced.
Where's best to start? Thanks
I'm working on modifying a trailer for my Ulster Replica which is presently in Sussex and I am in the US. Can anyone let me know what the height is of an Ulster Replica with aero screens, no hood, standard lowered configuration. I would guess about 3 feet, but an exact measurement would be helpful.
Here's a link to a picture of FDH 378 - my grandad's first car he bought after WW2. It's a blue and blank 1935 Austin 7 Ruby. He owned it through the 1950s and later up-sized to a Humber to fit his family of seven children!
According to the UK registration check, it still exists and is linked to the Midlands Austin 7 club and the Austin 7 club of London.
Has anyone seen this car? Own it? Know of it?
I'd love to find out where it is - and hear stories of its current life.
good sleeved standard block, i.e. back at 'datum' measurement 2.19". Probably wants a light hone (is that the right word?) before use.
I can take photos of anything you want inspected.
£80
Another thing kicking around that realistically I'm never going to make into an engine so might as well help someone else do so.
I have been asked to assist with re-commissioning a American Bantam Van, it was dismantled many, many years ago and restoration was started but never completed. I have been tasked with reassembling the vehicle and am seeking information and contacts who may be able to assist. I will post pictures in due course but as far as I can tell at this early stage the attached depict a similar van.
