Having at last been allowed back down the pit( after surgery) I have continued putting the back axle on my ‘37 Ruby.
On cleaning the rear shocks I found no washers on either the axle connection or that to the arm.
I have put steel washers either side of the rubber Bush on the axle connection but when I consulted “ Woodrow” his diagram shows fibre washers on either side of the Bush attaching to the shock absorber arm.
I can’t see why fibre washers should be used and intend to use steel washers unless there is some advantage in the fibre washers in this situation?
I would appreciate any comments.
Ian

Last Saturday's all Austin 7 race at VSCC Mallory for the Herbert Austin Challenge Plate was blessed with ideal weather and a full grid not seen for many years.

VSCCs Max Fraser came first, hotly pursued by H750Fs Mike Harvey and H750F won the team prize - so honours shared and everyone can't wait to do it again!

For all the details and glorious pictures do get this weeks edition of Autosport.



Charlie P-J

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Hi my name is Charlie and I am based in Reading in the UK.

I have just purchased an Austin 7 ARR New Ruby De-Luxe 1937.   The car is running and not too bad.

Noticed one of the doors is bulging and previous owner did not think it needed greasing and oiling so will need fixing.

On the doors am I right in thinking it has a wooden frame inside with the panels pinned to it as can see wood inside.

Cheers

Charlie

Happy to meet with local austin owners

BESPOKE PETROL TANK.


Good morning, all.

Our current project to build a late Ruby AVK van for a customer is being held up by the lack of a petrol tank. Unfortunately, anyone who has one needs it for their own schemes.

We've decided that the only solution is to get one made and I'm now looking for some competitive tenders. Does anyone have any recommendations for firms that can do this work?

The AVK tank is an oddity. It's the same width as a standard Ruby unit, but is a lot shallower, with a greater front-to-back length and a nearside filler pipe. Does anyone out there actually have one that they don't need?

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I see the FBHVC are asking about our cars and the introduction of E10 fuels here: https://paulc1.typeform.com/to/Bt7HKS

My own experience is that I used E10 exclusively for our tour around France this summer - the car ran perfectly on it for 2500 miles and returned 35mpg despite the weight it was carrying (GW of just under a tonne). I have used petrol containing ethanol in all the Austins since it was introduced and have never suffered any issues. 4 years ago I undertook a trip to Switzerland in the Pearl alternating 98 and E95 octane fuel each day. It misfired (almost pinked) on the 98 so much in the heat that after 4 days I reverted to E95 exclusively. I have asked several times on Forums if anyone can attribute issues in use of their A7 exclusively to the addition of ethanol but have yet to hear any replies. Plenty of worry about the potential issues but nothing, as yet, which is substantial. Has anyone here suffered something in their A7 which they can evidence back to Ethanol - genuinely interested?

The Green Book has a drawing of a very modestly lightened flywheel. I've seen some flywheels lightened in days gone by with a very gentle radius along the back. I've also seen the ones (from the 50's) with machined slots machined in the periphery leaving only enough metal to bolt on the cover plate. Lately I've seen flywheels machined to a flat disc of maybe 5/8" that use what appears to be an aluminium spacer to mount the clutch cover plate in the right position.

Has anyone weighed the various versions. I like the idea of the final version but wonder how much it really saves. 

Charles

I've had a look at the parts list (below) but can't identify which bits I may be missing.

I have play on (1) the steering wheel itself and (2) the ignition/gas plate is loose.

Both don't seem to tighten so I am suspecting bushes may be missing and I haven't got Platts catalogue to hand.
Could anyone diagnose what likely needs a shim or a bush in the event of parts not being easily replaceable please?

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Hi folks,  

I'm looking for a decent 1931 rear axle (ie long nose banjo) within a sensible distance of Bristol.  Has anybody got one for sale (happy to pay sensible money) ? Please PM me if you can help!

Thanks,

Damian G-T.

I have hardy spicer joints front and rear on my SWB Ulster Rep. The rear one had a couple of stiff spots so I ordered a new kit of races and spider from one of the cherished suppliers. With the Woodrow book, I thought the races would come out easily. Wow, was I wrong. After a couple of hours of fiddling and whacking with a brass drift, I got everything apart. The races were not rusty and I could see no reason why they were so tight in the yokes. One of the races had obvious wear spots from three or four needles. My question  is how tight should the outer races be in the yokes. Firm, so they don't spin, but it seems as if the yokes were machined out too tight. My other question is if the holes in the yokes are too tight, could that distort the outer races?

Erich in hot smoky Seattle.

Hello All
I am doing the rear hubs on my '37 Ruby axle and wondered if anyone could tell me what size the thin nut is that holds the inner half of the hub on please.
My largest Whitworth socket is 3/4" which fits the half shaft nut but I'll need a box spanner to do the thin nut or a deep socket.
Many thanks as always
Graham.