Hello all, I am about to assemble my engine for a road car, the first one in a long time and I have a few questions.  The engine will have a Paul Bonewell fast road cam, mildly lightenened flywheel, oversize inlet valves ( because the block was on the shelf complete with valves all unworn), 1 1/8 SU carb and Honda pistons.  I believe the pistons are 50 thou low on the block which I intend to fix to the crankcase with a neoprene gasket.  My questions are
1. How high is a standard block?
2. Should I reduce the block height so the pistons reach to the top?
3. Do I reduce the height at the top, the bottom or some of each?
4. Do I increase the reduction for the gasket thickness.?

I have had several differing answers to these questions and would like to find a concensus.

Colin

Can someone please confirm exactly how the fan pulley assembly fits together? I seem to have the parts below. I am guessing the steel washer goes against the pulley as it fits over the shaft. The brass washer then goes between it and the nut which is done up hard to the shoulder so the split pin holes line up? Also can someone tell me what thread the little bolts to hold the fan on are?



Thanks!

Simon

Having gathered together all the bits to make a good propshaft I find the new UJs are too big. With one circlip fitted in the yolk the UJ sits off centre and the opposite circlip cannot be fitted. It seems to be about 50 thou too long. Oddly the spare UJ I have carried in the car for 30 years is also too big! All the yolks are the same (as are those on another spare propshaft) and the UJs came from one of our cherished suppliers.

Are there different types depending on year or do they have to be machined to fit?

Peter.
'37 Ruby

I am after an adjustable front brake cable for uncoupled brakes, is there one available that has a joiner/ tensioner section which has left/ right hand threads in it , that would make adjusting the brakes so easy.
It would also be helpful to have one adjustable cable to the rear.
I know I could get one made up , but thought I would see if anything readily available first.
Any help appreciated 
Best Wishes 
Gene

This carburetor was also in the box of parts I recently acquired too. 

I like to take stock of what's what, I can hang some paper tags on them then, and one day they will be of use to me, or someone... 


Regards


Stewart.

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I only need the top tank but a scrap radiator will do.
Modestly priced ones only please...

I have just acquired a Nippy and in a box of bits was this manifold.....

Any idea what it is please? 

Were they any use, or does the fact that it is in the box and not on the car answer that question?


Regards


Stewart.

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It struck me that there will be tonnes of people who are searching for odd missing numbers and probably have spares as a result of different club memberships. Would it be a good thread to stimulate potential exchanges  i.e. people just listing what they have and what they want so swaps can occur off-thread?

I promised my car a new radiator some day. However the spare (scrap) rad I had in mind to re-core turns out to be the wrong type.

The one in the car has a 1 1/2" screw-on cap. (Right or wrong, I don't want to change this set-up).

The spare radiator top tank I have looks the same size and shape, but the filler neck is a die-casting affixed partly to the front of the tank an inch further forward and has a bayonet cap fixing.

According to Chris Gould's book it's a 1929-30 rad I need, or a genuine Ulster / Nippy. Given the cost of a new core my budget is already creaking.

I could of course re-core my existing rad, but then the car will be off the road again for weeks, also it's still quite serviceable as a spare.

Does anyone have a simple solution to repositioning the filler neck which does not take a lot of time or money? Logically it seems possible to remove the neck from my spare tank, fill up the resulting hole and solder on a new neck in the right place, but I would need to source a suitable new filler neck. Or if anyone has the right top tank and is willing to part with it for a tenner or two...

Parting question - was the original Ulster radiator a honeycomb type? or 'A' type film pattern (with vertical strips)? From my survey of period pictures I'm thinking honeycomb but I wonder if anyone can confirm.

My oil button isn't popping out though engine seems healthy and sounds ok!
What is my diagnosis route? - do I start off with rodding the jets, or just look for breached membrane and find some bacon box wrapping? Or just bang it in a particular place if it hasnt been used for 20 years?