Getting to the stage of reassembling wings etc for a trial "fit" on the AG tourer and I wonder which way are the bolts inserted?
When dis-assembled there were bolt heads on the outside looking in & on the inside looking out! Totally (apparently) random! Quite apart from many being metric roofing bolts!
To my mind the logic would be to have the heads outside so any  threads sticking out beyond the nut was not exposed to the elements, BUT for rear wings would the bolt length into the rear passenger area foul the wheel arch trim (ply & rexine) or whatever?
As an aside: I think a little thought on the part of Mr Edge or later minions could have made life much easier to remove the radiator etc without having to undo / remove everything in sight! Perhaps there is a sequence that evades me, or maybe my radiator is, along with the gearbox/engine mountings/not the original.....

Hi, I am about to fit 2 new Rubbers to the RP.  Can anyone tell me are they fixed with nuts and bolts or do they have a fixed nut.  (I can't see the existing fixings for all the gunge covering them). It looks like I will have to drill the heads off the bolts from the inside.  It would also help if anyone knows what size bolts they were fitted with. Thanks.
Smiley.

I have a replacement ring gear with no instructions. 
I've read the previous thread and know that the diameter on the clutch cover needs to be 9.010" and that heating the ring gear in a hot oven is ideal.
Any other useful details that I'm missing from the installation instructions?

Thanks 

Charles

1938/39 (heavy axle July 1938 onwards)
The half shafts are 14 thread per inch (TPI).  I measure them as being 3/4 inch diameter at thread.  3/4 inch BSF is given as 12 TPI but I notice in my Newnes Engineer's manual that 11/16 BSF is 14 TPI so can someone confirm they are actually 3/4 inches with an Austin special thread?.

Split pin for castellated nut.
I have found a pin that is a good, gentle tap fit into the hole and the head more or less fills the castle gap.  Using my micrometer this pin measures 0.132 inches (3.44mm).  But I only have one and the next nearest size is 0.1165 - 0.12 inches (2.93mm) which is a bit slack in the hole.  Bearing in mind that 1/8 inch is 0.124"  can I assume I am looking for 1/8 inch split pins to buy?

Possibly helpful interesting figures for getting hole and nut castellations lined up:-

14 TPI gives a pitch of 0.0714285 inch.
There are 6 slots in the nut therefore:-
Slot to slot = 1/6 X 0.0714285  = 0.0119047 inches

3/4 castle over hole = 3/24 X 0.0714285   = 0.0089285"  (9 thou) shim added to align hole/castle.
1/2 castle over hole = 1/12 X 0.0714285   = 0.0059523" (6 thou) shim added to align hole/castle
1/4 castle over hole = 1/24 X 0.0714285   = 0.0029761" (3 thou) shim added to align hole /castle

Note the above assumes the gap in the nut has gone passed the hole in the shaft so the nut needs to turn anticlockwise which will be achieved when adding the thickness shown.  You can use a thicker washer which is a multiple of the slot to slot size + the extra fraction of slot to slot size required.  This may be necessary if the nut is going too far onto the shaft so the hole is or is nearly beyond the castellations.

Also to note, nuts may be flange....these are the better ones to use.

(and lastly...don't forget to put the washer in after the oil seal and BEFORE the bearing!..........ah ok I should have put this first  )

Dennis

This has just been posted in the Parts for Sale section of the 'Morris Minor Owners Club Forum' - I doubt if they'll get much attention there and the vendor says they'll go for scrap if no one shows an interest very soon, which would be a shame. They're apparently located in North Devon.

I've absolutely no connection whatsoever to the vendor or the engines, I'm merely passing on the information should anyone be interested in taking it forward.

https://www.mmoc.org.uk/MessageBoard/vie...ead#unread 

https://www.mmoc.org.uk/MessageBoard/viewforum.php?f=8


  Screen Shot 2018-09-27 at 14.25.13.png (Size: 47.27 KB / Downloads: 278)

Having decided that after my debacle with my existing prop shaft(a loose fit with one of the races, I would save some cost and machining by ordering a new one(Hardy Spicer both ends with a sliding joint for an Ulster Rep). After ordering a new one from from one of the usual suppliers, the new one arrived. the large diameter tube is 1 7/8 inches, whereas the old one (largest diameter) was 1 1/2 inches. The engine and gearbox are out, but this seems too large and I'm concerned this will have clearance issues. Does anyone have an Ulster Rep or even standard car and can tell me what the diameter of the largest tube on their prop shaft is? As I am in the US, it isn't an easy exchange. Almost two inches seems much too large and might not clear the tunnel.

Erich in Seattle

Hello Guys

I have a 1930 Austin 7 

I need a pair of Reflectors,Head lamp Glasses & Outer Rims

If any one know where to buy these parts please let me know

Thanks

I am overhauling the cross-shaft and bearings on the coupled brakes on my 1934 Box Saloon. With all parts cleaned and measured, it can be seen that there is little wear on the N/S bearing and some wear on the centre bearing, which measures 1.181 inches diameter. If I guess that this was an inch and three sixteenths when new (1.1875"), then there is about 6 thou wear. 
The O/S bearing, next to the foot brake connection, is at the end of a long length of inch and five sixteenth shaft (1.3125") and would have been this same diameter when new. It is now slightly oval with diameters between 1.301" and 1.304" diameter. If a new bearing sleeve was to be slid up the shaft it would need to be (say) 1.314" inside diameter, so there would be 10 to 13 thou slogger. 
Before I consider machining the 1.3125" part of the shaft to match the cleaned up part of the O/S bearing (and maybe cleaning up the centre bearing) it begs the question: is it worth it?
In other words, would this amount of slogger affect the braking efficiency, or make it harder to correctly adjust the brakes? I would be pleased to know if anyone has previously commented on this.
Ron

any thoughts on a next step?

(Ruby) manifold all loose and nuts off. 

One nearest the rad is oversize and its obviously stuck, as when you waggle the manifold, the stud waggles/bends too. I can get a mm of movement from the block/head, levering with a jemmy bar between head and sidedraft inlet manifold parts. Rest completely loose.

I've taken off the fan/dynamo housing to allow wooden drift from behind onto the manifold outlet end, whilst waggling.
No joy with the amount of force presently applied...

Tried some heat around the stud, but no joy.

Don't want to disturb block. But also tried removing stud with two nuts next to each other, but that didn't work either.

Date: 29-09-2018

VSCC Prescott hill climb - long course

UIt’s nearly time for the VSCCs second visit to Prescott for 2018 - this time in a 1 day format using the long course. I won’t be out in the cup model as something horrible happened to the distributor on the way to Prescott in August, but should be a good event nonetheless. 

Peter

https://www.vscc.co.uk/page/events?eventID=1266