Austin Sevens of all types are invited to the 750 Motor Club - Tunbridge Wells Centre's Stoneacre Trial on 23rd September.

Stoneacre is a National Trust property near Otham in Kent and we will be using a field close to the house - but not part of the estate, so no need to join the NT or pay an entrance fee. Classes for standard, modified and specials, and we particularly welcome new entrants. Mike Stone will be setting-out the hills and there will be plenty of opportunities for skill and cunning but nothing to break your car. An added attraction will be Ruth's catering van offering bacon rolls, burgers hot drinks & cold drinks! 

Entry forms from event secretary: barry@marthatrust.org.uk

I don't need auto advance any more and it doesn't seem cost effective to just use the electronic bit to replace the points on my DJ. £95

I also have a very good 8 degree Lucas DK4A with good bearings and good baseplate, rebuilt weights , but needing new springs. Disassembled £85

pm your email address for images.

The nose of the casting on my engine has suffered over the years & quite a large chunk at the end (about 5-8 o'clock & an inch) is no longer there! Clearly the starting handle has been rattling up & down. Unsurprisingly there is significant wear on the starting handle shaft as well.
I am not minded to find a replacement cover & think this must be a well known problem...is there a "fix"? I am thinking of fitting a bush/sleeve over the handle shaft & fitting it into the nose of the cover. Maybe made from a hard plastic polybush?. The car starts well on the motor, so I don't anticipate lots of winding in future. I am more concerned to stop the handle shaft rattling about.
The bush would be quite thin as the gap from shaft o/d to cover i/d is "only!" about .030" (variable!). I recall seeing "steel tubes" from somewhere that might be to solve this one, but cannot find them...do they work? I don't want to have to machine the components unless I have to. My plan is a to just find a "fix" at this stage.

A Nigel Wilder from York phoned me about Cup Model details tonight - he did not leave his number in the message however!

If anyone has phone details for him, please Private Message me.

Many thanks.

I know this might get a lot of conflicting answers but...

I know the torque setting on the Phoenix rod big end bolts is 35 ft-lbs. They are ARP bolts. But is that dry or with lube? The ARP site talks about their fancy lube which isn't too expensive. Do people just use that? Or clean oil? Blue Loctite? Does it matter?

Simon

Good afternoon.
This is my first post, I've had my 1934 box saloon since October last year it was purchased for my wife who has wanted one for years.
I have over the winter been doing various things to improve it's running but one thing which has stumped me is i can't get it to accelerate unless I fiddle with the choke as I try and drive, this virtually makes it impossible to drive on the road.
If I don't touch the choke it will go to 30mph in second and that's it, change into 3rd and 4th and it will still stay at 30 unless we come to a hill.
My wife bless her is very frustrated at missing the opportunity to drive it in all this lovely weather we have had.
I have stripped and cleaned the crab (zenith 26va) including all the jets and drillings 3 or more times and blown through with high pressure air, checked for manifold leaks, made and fitted a new gasket, (adjusted the float height so it should now be running rich) timing checked and adjusted several times, new condenser fitted, fuel drained and replaced, fuel line blown out, getting a good supply from the pump.
Tappets have been adjusted, compression is 100psi in each cylinder, give or take one or two pounds. (amazing) , new ht leads fitted, plugs sand blasted and gaped (champion d16.
The car starts easily and will tick over well although when cold pops back in the crab a bit.
I am a motorcycle man in essence so am well used to old bike engines and the issues thrown up and have been tinkering with and maintaining my vehicles for 55 years but this little Austin has got me beat.
PLEASE OH PLEASE Somebody tell me what I'm missing.
If anyone is interested enough to have a look at it I live in Handcross west Sussex.
Any help or idea's will be gratefully accepted.
Thanks in anticipation from a man at his wit's end.

A bit of an optimistic, long-shot, but does anyone vaguely near Aylesbury have any unwanted, worn out 17" tyres spare which they would like to sell? I am looking for some to fit the rims for my Ruby chassis while I am working on it. I have just one spare motorbike tyre at the moment and I am reluctant to buy new tyres until the car is a lot nearer to being ready, to avoid them getting damaged by the work or deteriorating from a lack of use.

Regards,

Jamie.

My mother and I have just spent a lovely weekend at the annual Swallow Register Rally - this year it came north to Yorkshire, many thanks to all who helped organise it.

   

   

   

Has anybody changed from 6v to 12v on an austin 7 ruby.  If so how easy was it?

Any help appreciated.

Charlie

Hello all, I am about to assemble my engine for a road car, the first one in a long time and I have a few questions.  The engine will have a Paul Bonewell fast road cam, mildly lightenened flywheel, oversize inlet valves ( because the block was on the shelf complete with valves all unworn), 1 1/8 SU carb and Honda pistons.  I believe the pistons are 50 thou low on the block which I intend to fix to the crankcase with a neoprene gasket.  My questions are
1. How high is a standard block?
2. Should I reduce the block height so the pistons reach to the top?
3. Do I reduce the height at the top, the bottom or some of each?
4. Do I increase the reduction for the gasket thickness.?

I have had several differing answers to these questions and would like to find a concensus.

Colin