Can someone tell me the reference number /spec for the centre cam bearing outer race used in the 65/Nippy with a 2 bearing crank?
It's probably buried in the old site but I couldn't find it 

Thanks 

Charles

Can anyone recommend someone in the Derby area that can skim some brake drums for me?

I'm about ready to refit the rebuilt front shock to my SWB Ulster Rep. When it came to me, the shock was attached to the axle with the rubber bushed aluminum links mounted so that the the shock ends attached with the alloy links pointing downward from the axle. I am attaching a photo of how it was mounted. I have looked in photos to see the the alloy links pointing upward from the dropped axle. Which is correct?

Erich in Seattle

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
   

Reading the October minutes I was pleased to see confirmation that the A7CA Magazine will be priced at 1.50 GBP including postage to Australia- thank you. I have been promoting the Magazine in our Light Shaft Club Magazine. 

There was also mention of the A7CA preserving the valuable Speedex website which has been subjected to a few ISP problems over the years- I personally support any actions in this.

Cheers, Tony Press, Austin Seven Club Inc. Melbourne.

The drum retaining screws I have are not long enough to screw into the hub of my Ruby,they are 1/2” and I need
9/16”.
I intended to look for some at the NEC but when offering the screws up ( without the hub) they do not grip cleanly. The question is what thread and size should they be as I do not want to force in a screw of the wrong thread.they appear to be  a BA “0” thread.
If this thread is correct then I can use a tap to clean them up
Replies would be appreciated.
Ian

I’ve started to get ready for replacing the brake linings on the special. One of the main aims is to improve the braking performance. When looking at the rear brakes, I’ve spotted that the actuators are at the 8 o’clock position. Is this correct to achieve maximum braking?

Thanks.

Matt

I am stripping my Zenith 30VEI and the pin which provides the pivot for the lever connecting the strangler lever to the throttle via a rod is very badly worn, so I want to replace it.

I am assuming it is a straight press fit item so intend cutting it off 2mm proud of the carb body and drilling it out. 

For obvious reasons I am very nervous of doing any damage to the carb body, so would appreciate an expert opinion about my proposed course of action.

The pin I'm talking about is the one next to the screw driver in the pic.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
       

I got my hands on a Brooklands Books 'Austin 7' and was surprised there werent many magazine tests pre 1928.
Is there a summary anywhere, or can anyone add anything they have access to?

Brooklands has....

Motor - Dinghy of the road - Sept 4 1923
 
Motor - Sports model - 27 Jan 1925

Motor - Getting the Best out of an Austin 7 -  June 14 1927

i.e. has anyone any Light Car articles pre 1928?

TIA

Saw this 7 on ebay, which on the face of it looks good with a lot of work done so I’m surprised that after 10 days it still hasn’t sold.Is it too expensive for what it is?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1935-Austin-7...1438.l2649

Having completed work on the camshaft and bearings.
Just about to grind in the valves.
Engine is now locked solid.
Engine has been in every position possible while working on it.
Is it possible for the oil pump to seize ???
Help much needed