My crankshaft broke....I could do with a replacement so the engine can run again! What have you got?

Thanks

Ray

I was the owner of Austin Chummy PO1388 from 1958 till 1961. The last post that I have been able to trace was from Mike Crehan in 2012 on the old Site which is closed.
It is still taxed and due for renewal on Nov 1. I would like to contact the present owner or Mike, does any one know anything to help?

Fuzzbuzz

Hi People
I have two valves which have burned faces.
These are too deep to grind using the normal paste method.
What about refacing on a lathe ??
Regards
            Tim

Peter's Funeral, 13 November 1300hrs, St Laurence's Church, Church Stretton SY6 6DQ Shropshire.
Update
For anyone travelling to Peter's funeral on Tuesday - the local vintage car club that Peter was so passionate about and also chief organiser of, and who manned the filter point for the Welsh Trial, will be gathering just before his funeral on Tuesday, 13th November at The Bucks Head, Church Stretton, from 11.30 onwards for coffee and chat, before heading off to the Church shortly before one. The Bucks Head literally backs onto the Church and is barely a two minute walk away. Anybody attending the funeral who would like to join us for coffee and a chat, to warm up or thaw out, would be most welcome - so do please come along if you can. 
Please pass this information on to anyone who think may also wish to be there.

Thank you.

 Ian Mc.

I've just fitted relined front brake shoes, with new endaps. New brake shoe springs, cams and bushes. The brake drums are new cast ones. Top pivots were secure.

When shimming the top pivot, I followed the advice in Woodrow, to pack them until the shoes were "just touching the drum", before replacing the hub.

With the hub back on (with new bearings) and the drum screwed down tightly, about 2/3 of a turn is free, but the remaining third is way too tight.

As I said, they are new cast drums so will be perfectly round, so can anybody explain a) what is happening, and b) how I rectify it?

Thanks
John

The AD Chummy has an updraft T24 Carburettor. I have stripped it & cleaned the muck out, checked the jets are the recommended ones & put it back on with a new gasket. The car started well, but will only run with the choke fully out!
It will rev a bit and even tick over like this, but this is not a good long term plan!
No clouds of petrol-ly smoke, sounds quite healthy, but something is clearly wrong somewhere.
Took the carb off again to see if the slow running jet was blocked, but no: clear.
Put it back together, same result.
Mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from fully in.
What next to try?
Previous owner said it ran earlier this year, but it may have been like this!
David

       

I have just recieved from one of our suppliers a hard rubber part I did not order and I don’t know what it is
What is it? and if anyone has ordered it recently let me know, I could take it to the NEC tomorrow and leave it in care of the PWAC stand.

I also had difficulty attaching photos 

Ian

750 Motor Club, Tunbridge Wells Centre invite you to take part in the Cold Turkey Trail at Tulley's Farm, near Crawley, West Sussex on 29 December 2018.

Classes for standard, modified and special Austin Sevens competing on challenging hills and hollows but nothing designed to break your car! Good access from the road, parking for cars and trailers, and (we hope) Ruth's catering van for early breakfast, lunchtime, and afternoon tea!

Entry costs £20 and forms from : barry@marthatrust.org.uk

Last night Burt became very unwell....

The engine has had a light rattle at higher engine speed when warm, but not significant to pull the engine apart.

But yesterday things got pretty noisy pretty quickly! Symptoms now are:-

- Engine will idle but with a light rattle
- As soon as off idle with no load the engine is extremely clattery/knocking.

It's not a big end noise, and obviously the enigine needs to come out for inspection and repair. But until I do that in the next few days my mind is wondering what it could be. Is it possible for a 3 bearing engine to still run with a broken crank? Could be the flywheel has decided to start removing itself from the crank. Could be a piston fallen apart. No holes in the crank case (yet!). Or maybe rear main has disintegrated?

What is the 'normal' failure mode for a 3 bearing engine?

Ray

Anyone else having trouble trying to post images? I am getting a 'Please choose a valid file and try again' error message. The file is a normal .jpg of no great size.