Hello

All four hydraulic brakes on the test bench are ok
But the Austin pulls to the left when braking hard

what is the problem? the brake fluid is exchanged.
(the problem existed before the exchange)

I can not find a solution.

Thanks and Greetings
Thomas

Hi, can someone tell me about boot / spare wheel compartment sag and how this can be corrected , especially if anyone has had this problem and subsequently fixed it. I'm told it's not an uncommon problem with the nippy.
Safe motoring out there .
Regards RPM

I'm posting this as found it difficult to find things in one place on the web. I wanted to know the exact CR on a Ricardo head machined for high lift cam [i.e. its got maximum volume possible] as I don't know the condition of the bottom end of this engine and whilst I want to use it as my LC head is quite badly corroded. I don't want to inflict big stresses on the engine. It's the first of the 1 5/16" crank and presently running with a Ruby manifold (ha!) which I will keep, with a 1" SU eventually.


I found that my pistons are +040, and the table in the back of the 750MC Companion gives 774cc.

That is thus 193.5cc per cylinder.

I have a little weedkiller millilitre dispenser and I filled 35, then 30ml, in order to pour into the compression chamber with a spark plug fitted.

1 cubic centimetre  = 1ml (seems impossible, but google says..)

I could get 30ml in, but unsure about the meniscus bit... so it may be a bit less.

193.5 divided by 30 gives 6.45 Compression Ration (29 would give 6.67) which seems just about ok if I use a standard gasket rather than a thin one.

I'd like to know where I can improve my maths and what else I haven't allowed for (or have done wrong) - will it be lower because of the gasket thickness for instance?

Now the manifold is off, I've removed the hotspot for modern fuel, and I thought I'd post here as I couldn't find a pic of what I need to do prior.
I've also widened the inlet manifold obstruction (both pics have another standard manifold next) ready for the better flow from 1" SU, and am just going to keep on with this til it feels like it widens/tapers nicely into the main tube beyond.

Anything else I need to do, profitably. Exhaust bits? Someone mentioned making sure the holes line up, but does that mean taking it out to the size of the gasket rim.. can't see anything if I offer it up to the block...

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one for you electrickery people out there. Advise on glass fuses sought. I can find plenty of the glass fuses on fleabay, the correct length and amperage but most appear to be 250v. Is it a case of amps is amps or does the current come into it ?.
Also please advise what amp fuses are recommended for a late Opal,  all I can find in the books is “ replace with the same rating as that removed”

I seem to recall reading an informative thread on the old forum recently about converting the front brakes to TLS whilst retaining the cables. Do you think that I can find it again? ..........

Does anyone else recall it or could direct me to it or any other relevant articles?

Regards,

Jamie.

I shall be getting few sets of the special rear engine mounts fitted to Cup Models made up for myself and a friend, if anyone wants a set please post below and I shall add you to the list.

Getting to the stage of reassembling wings etc for a trial "fit" on the AG tourer and I wonder which way are the bolts inserted?
When dis-assembled there were bolt heads on the outside looking in & on the inside looking out! Totally (apparently) random! Quite apart from many being metric roofing bolts!
To my mind the logic would be to have the heads outside so any  threads sticking out beyond the nut was not exposed to the elements, BUT for rear wings would the bolt length into the rear passenger area foul the wheel arch trim (ply & rexine) or whatever?
As an aside: I think a little thought on the part of Mr Edge or later minions could have made life much easier to remove the radiator etc without having to undo / remove everything in sight! Perhaps there is a sequence that evades me, or maybe my radiator is, along with the gearbox/engine mountings/not the original.....

Hi, I am about to fit 2 new Rubbers to the RP.  Can anyone tell me are they fixed with nuts and bolts or do they have a fixed nut.  (I can't see the existing fixings for all the gunge covering them). It looks like I will have to drill the heads off the bolts from the inside.  It would also help if anyone knows what size bolts they were fitted with. Thanks.
Smiley.

I have a replacement ring gear with no instructions. 
I've read the previous thread and know that the diameter on the clutch cover needs to be 9.010" and that heating the ring gear in a hot oven is ideal.
Any other useful details that I'm missing from the installation instructions?

Thanks 

Charles