Hello all,
this may have been touched on before but I would like to have some discussion on the best way currently to break in the new engine  (re-bore, new big ends, bearings, valves, guides, etc.) so that the best performance can be had from the reconditioned engine.

Break in oil is now a favored method of helping to bed things in and the initial first uses of the engine are said to be best if the car is taken out and driven under load fairly vigorously (without thrashing it) so as to help  "set" things.

Loads are varied during the initial miles and the car driven about 500 miles to break it in after which the break in oil is changed for the oil of choice, clearances checked, and adjusted as required,head re torqued,  timing checked etc. so the car is now ready for its life on the road.

Is this what is now considered to be a good method of running in for our cars? Your thoughts ?
Thanks,
Stephen

Does anyone know how the wheels where trimmed.  Most refurbished cars appear to use beading between the sides and the top of the wheel arch.  But I spotted what looks like an original car (although from a car from New Zealand) which looks like the trim was a thick piece of wood over the wheel arch plywood to the sides, all covered in fabric but no beading.
   
   
   

After removing the rear seats as part of my renovation on my 1937 Ruby, the rear panels under the window and spare wheel cover are covered in a fur like material, can anyone tell me if this original or if it as been fitted in a previous renovation

Thanks for all replies

Anything worth seeing in Walsall?
Dropping in there tomorrow noon and the present best option is picking up a shalf from Ikea on the way back towards Stratford for teatime. Which isn't a particularly life-enhancing excursion.

good evening gents

determined to get chummy PX6609 running right again!

Symptoms: has to be properly flooded to even think of starting.
Pulls well in first and second with some hesitation... gets into top really flat....... running an original brass zenith. Jets are 70 in the one under the long tube you can adjust a screw above from the outside.... and the other 75 which I couldn't get out to clean... jet key ordered..... do these sound write
I think mag is ok I tried it one tooth either way on te connector and it was worse...

gratefullyefuly received!!!

best

P

Hi there I’m new to this site and 7s can anyone help me locate  a screen/surround  for nippy or any info that may help. Rob 07890 191498

Hi

What are the chances of ever getting the VSCC to welcome our Rubys into the PVT class?  Is it the Semi-Girling brakes that they don't like?

Colin

At least a couple of 'sales and wants' ads have developed into technical discussions which might benefit from the input of other forum members or indeed be of interest and value to others. Do we have a mechanism to transfer existing threads from 'S&W' into the 'forum chat' section?

My assumption is that most members only visit S&W when they are short of something so may be unaware of these threads.

Can anyone please help me source a spare seal for my winged Boyce radiator cap. I can't see one listed on the spares sites that I have visited.
Regards
Peter

Hi,

Despite searching the Forum I can't find anything on cleaning out a radiator. I have a functional non-leaking radiator but have noticed the running temperature has gradually increased over recent years that has no engine related explanations. I can see a skin of brown scale through the cap.

So: what potions can I flush out the core with, preferably something proprietary and economical - and with a residue that I can safely dispose with a clear conscience! I know about citric acid but wonder what experience others have had with it? What about kettle etc descalers? And maybe not relevant, I've heard that Milton fluid is great for taking that brown tea stain out of stainless vacuum flasks - that's the sort of idea I'm looking for - but would it work in a radiator?

I know I'll take a risk of springing a leak but what's worked for you?

Thanks, Dave