Good evening all , I am trying to locate one of those oval or round steps with Austin written on as seen on a number of specials ,if any one has any idea where I may get one it would be appreciated , Thankyou

What is the assembled wisdom / approval about using modern stone chip finish under wings?
Used and then pained wing colour (black in this case)
Will I be drummed out of the Brownies if I go down this route ?
David

Further to my quest to find a block.
Are +0.050” pistons available ?
Regards
            Tim

Hi All,

I'm curious about this car. Is this an AAK or similar?

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1934-a...2018-09-20

Erich in Seattle

Hello All,

I am trying to get a year and even a month if possible for the following engine number: M26408  from my research i believe late 1926?

thanks
Simon

Hello, again here putting back my tuned Austin Seven.

I am testing the engine on a test bench, but the timing gears are very noisy at low speed,

there is play on the gears but doesn't seems so that much to justify the noise.

Is it normal or should i think of replacing?

I see they are not reproduced, is there anyone that had a spare set available for sale?

thank you 

JI'm sure it's been covered here before, but a simple question - can I extract the conrod big end through the bore if the oil baffle plates are not present (standard bore engine)?

I need to replace a little end pinch bolt and I am hoping I can do this by removing sump/gauze and head only.

Thanks

Ray

Just appeared on Youtube last last night....



Is that Vince Leek (with his ScA7C badge in the windscreen)?

Hi, Whilst grovelling under the back of the RP, I have just noticed What I will describe as a Rebound Rubber Block attached to the chassis directly over the Rear Axle.  One of them is missing.
Can anyone advise what the purpose of this is,(probably obvious from my description), what is the correct description and are they still obtainable. ?

Smiley

While re-assembling my rear hub I was just putting the nuts on the wheel studs to hold the hub tool on that allows you to hold the hub while tightening the half shaft nut.  I used moderate pressure with the spanner just to ensure the tool was reasonably tight on the hub.  Two tightened ok but the third (as always the last one!) became easy to turn....the stud pulled out of the round plate that is riveted to the rear hub half.
The new stud bought looks to be far better in that it appears to be STUD/PLATE machined out of one solid billet rather than plate with seperate stud welded in.

So CHECK YOUR WHEEL STUDS FOR BEING FIXED TO THE RIVETED PLATE.

   

   

Rude words were said while I quickly removed hub before bearing locktite could set, on shaft taper and around bearing in hub....

So how do you rivet on the new one? An anvil (5mm round) held in vice to rest the rivet head on; one hand holding hub; second hand holding drift against end of rivet; THIRD hand holding hammer to strike drift    Note that the other half can't be involved in any holding anything  steady as this has led to "heated discussions" in the past!


Dennis