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Austin Seven max weight?
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Sump bolt thread restorat...
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The essential car wash.
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What have you done today ...
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Head / Block Leak (Possib...
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Wheel Balancing
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Getting Rear Axle back in
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Broken Spring Leaf
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17” wheels wanted
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Brake shoe crack
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Ruby Mk2 rear drop glass |
Posted by: Nigel Ricardo - 27-11-2018, 09:30 PM - Forum: Wants
- Replies (6)
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Wanted ARR Ruby / Pearl rear drop glass as a pattern to get 2 cut, the condition is not important, or has anyone one got one out of a car they could draw around on paper as a pattern?
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Vehicle trace? |
Posted by: crt86t - 25-11-2018, 06:47 PM - Forum: Forum chat...
- Replies (32)
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I have an Austin Seven Van. It may not have started life as a van but I have no history for it. All the numbers below cannot be found on any Austin Seven web site (so far) hence this query.
Q. Does anyone know anything about the history of this vehicle:
DVLA V5 shows the initial registration 01/November/1931,
First registered as a historic vehicle in the UK DVLA February 2015 as WSG 506
Chassis number 137480
Engine number M133031
Body number B3-8158
Colour Blue/Black
All help appreciated!
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Brake rod |
Posted by: AustinA - 25-11-2018, 06:38 PM - Forum: Forum chat...
- Replies (1)
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Hi all, can anyone recommend what grade steel I need to use to make a new brake rod? The rod from the pedal to the cross shaft
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Engine running despite the state of the SU |
Posted by: Mark McKibbin - 25-11-2018, 09:19 AM - Forum: Forum chat...
- Replies (12)
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When I was putting the special together I put a H1 (1 1/8") SU on the engine that I found on my shelves with the intention of sorting it later. I have now travelled about 500Km and it ran very strongly but for other reasons the engine is out again and as I am waiting for some parts, I thought it a good time to have a look at the SU. First off it has a damper with a weight but also has a spring also it has a 3/16" hole on the top between the Damper and the butterfly I assume for a vacuum line ...but it was running with OK apart from the plugs being very black and lastly the needle is a GG also I have now blocked the hole.
The engine is standard other than a 37 head that somewhere in the past has had about 1/16" shaved off it and a set of extractors 4 into 2 into 1
Lastly I had a 18mm bung put in the exhaust so I can put my air fuel gauge in to get it right but I do need a starting point with needle and spring or no spring recommendations.
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Odd noise |
Posted by: Steve kay - 24-11-2018, 07:02 PM - Forum: Forum chat...
- Replies (11)
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Having improved the performance and reduced the noise of the Ruby with an engine rebuild by Steve Flake, I decided to further enhance the quiet running with an Andy Bird gearbox. Engine out, old noisy gearbox despatched by courier, new gearbox offered up. A word of thanks here to those on the forum suggesting such an obvious and easy way of making gearbox/engine mating so much easier, temporary longer bolts instead of the top two studs, why didn't I know that twenty years ago.
Gearbox in situ, turn over to check OK. Oh dear, definitely not OK as there was a graunching sort of sound a couple of times each revolution. Gearbox off, noise still present. Difficult to believe that the sound was present before engine removal from the car, but a sound in a quiet workshop might have been hidden in the car. Discuss with a couple of stalwart motorists, all puzzled. Drag a passing Ruby owner into the workshop, said he'd never heard anything like it. Offer up feelers and cardboard whilst revolving to see if the flywheel teeth were rubbing but no evidence. Then decided to try another diagnosis, and turned the engine upside down. This time no sound, and whilst turning it back again turned it over whilst nose up in the air, no sound this way either. However nothing fell out whilst it was inverted suggesting that there had been a temporary fouling of flywheel or clutch, and when back the usual way up we have the slight graunching twice a turn again.
It would be wonderful if any forum folk were able to say, oh yes, happens dozens of times dead easy...... the again there might be a chorus of sorry old chap, flywheel off.
In case it is relevant, this picture shows the slight but noticeable chewed up teeth, a bit surprising on quite a new ring.
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Con rod query |
Posted by: Colin Wilks - 24-11-2018, 05:35 PM - Forum: Forum chat...
- Replies (68)
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I am hoping to reuse my standard 1.5” white metalled rods in my sports engine rebuild (after balancing and renewing the white metal). The gudgeon pins are fully floating so there are no pinch bolts on the little ends to worry about. Doing some homework on availability of new / decent second hand rods the choice seems to be Phoenix, Hadley or original Austin.
A couple of people have warned me off Phoenix rods as they are not drilled so as to encourage the flow of oil across the big ends.
Clearly I can drill them myself if needed, but I'm confused as to why people may be selling rods for Austin Sevens that apparently are less than ideal?
Be grateful to hear people's experience and advice.
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Opals and two-seaters |
Posted by: JonE - 24-11-2018, 12:36 PM - Forum: Forum chat...
- Replies (45)
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An interesting conundrum on Facebook.
The hypothesis [suggested by Wyatt, essentially, supported by all the Austin literature presently on offer] is that the "Opal" was so named in August '34 as part of the Longbridge launch of the Jewel series, as the last vestige of the flat chrome rad in the range. £100.
In Aug 35, the Ruby-type front APE car took over (after 735 APDs produced), with the name "Two-Seater". £102.10s
There is believed to be evidence for the later model name continuing as the "Opal" in more than just social useage, the latter of which is completely understandable. So if anyone has any named picture of the APE contained within original Austin factory material or advertising, with anything other than "Two-Seater", please shout!
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