Thanks to the contact suggested on another thread, Lorna Mountford showed me some Swallow braid which I realised was similar to some R Saloon braid I'd just been emailed, so this might be of interest to other Austin owners; they are doing a re-manufacture run and further cost savings are still possible if more people come forward!

  1929 Swallow braid.jpg (Size: 18.33 KB / Downloads: 117)
  People can get in touch via info@swallowregister.org 
Cost estimates are dependent on length orders.  PRICES PER METER: 15m = £36 +VAT, reducing to £20+VAT for orders of 100m or more.  Swallows already have confirmed orders getting to a £27+VAT price 



(If you have a SWB with cloth trim - please send ME a pic - it might help solve current mysteries suggested by rafts of trim names in the ledgers...thanks Jon) 
 

I have just been looking through my spares box and found some spare diff carriers.
Two of them are different widths as in photos, one 2.75” the other 3” across the main body, the bolt lengths are also different.
The mating joints have different widths of metal.
Can anyone explain what cars they may be off?
   

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I ordered bonnet weatherstrip for my Ulster Rep from one of the cherished suppliers. I came and the profile matched the profile in Fig. 29 of Chris Gould's book. Unfortunately, it is vinyl, not rubber. So ordered another weatherstrip from another cherished supplier. This is rubber, but the profile is much larger than in Fig. 29 of the Chris Gould book. Can anyone point me to a correct rubber one? The Gould book says it is available from the "usual stockists".

Erich in Seattle

I have a problem with my RP, which boils its coolant after less than five minutes at a moderate tick-over when stationary.
 
The story so far:
 
In the past couple of years the car has been almost unused, clocking up only about 130 miles. In June I "borrowed" its carburettor to get the van to Beaulieu, eventually replacing it on the RP.
 
Taking it out on a test run, after five minutes I noticed oil pressure dropping to zero. A quick look under the bonnet showed a massive oil leak at the front end, couple with ominous bubblings and hissing from the radiator. After letting it cool down, I limped home.
 
Stripping the engine down, no obvious signs of damage, other than the oil leaks. No sign of damage to cylinder head or gasket. Big end, main bearings and everything else OK and running freely. Tooth missing on smaller timing gear - gears  replaced.  Block, head and radiator flushed out with garden hose - no obvious blockages.
 
Engine reassembled (silicone gaskets) and installed. Fired first time and ran well with no obvious leaks, then began to boil. Mixture, timing and everything else checked and satisfactory - mixture actually slightly rich. Water seems to be circulating normally
 
Any ideas? Is there a sort of "reverse Radweld" that might flush out an unsuspected blockage? Has anyone experienced anything similar?

I was thinking of fitting 1 1/4 brake shoes to my front brakes but concluded that although the linings would probably last longer, they wouldn't generate any more friction. Can anyone confirm whether they make any real difference?.

Looking at the picture of Damian's asymmetrical shoe I was wondering about fitting the wider shoes but trimming the linings down to say 3/4 of their usual length so that the shoe would be unlined towards the cam end. In theory you could maintain the same lining area (or maybe even slightly reduce it) but get more pressure due to the increased leverage. That is probably not an approved procedure but could be tested fairly easily if you don't mind experimenting and relining shoes a few times... In any case, my car has had the same front brake linings for 15 years and they are still going strong so wear doesn't seem to be a bit issue at the front.


Are there any other mods to get more pressure at the front without resorting to hydraulic or bowden brakes, such as using longer levers?

Is this the only way to make them oil tight?

http://www.immortal-gems.co.uk/

Appears to have been quite an original and straight car prior to the conversion.

I need a C35M brush plate, the circular spring retaining clip for the end plate of the dynamo that covers the dizzy drive gear, and a woodruff key for the dynamo drive gear end please. 07831 805455

While visiting relatives near Stirling I spotted photos of a Nippy at speed on a circuit. Ah yes, says Calum, that's me at Brands Hatch in the 50's when I was at Cambridge! He was involved in motor sport with the University Motor Club. The car was CZ 3075. According to the records it may have also have been WP7433. Chassis 215136. It is now (last recorded 2013)) in the USA. He has photos of the car & tales to tell that might interest the current owner. I can put them in touch.
He also owned another: GK (CK?) 6768, but neither registration is on the list as far as I can see.
Can the Nippy Register help?

The idea behind this thread is to share ways we've come up with to improve on shortcomings of this wonderful little car to enhance our enjoyment of its virtues.

As I slowly restore my Seven I am constantly looking to see if there are ways to improve how things work or in many cases last.

Some activities or maintenance activities will eventually cause things like old tired threads to fail etc. One of the things I don't like about the Seven engine is the way that the sump  is held on with bolts into the cast aluminum crank case. Trying to get a good oil tight seal (if that is possible) with the old technology of paper gasket and oval washers to spread the compression on the sump face when you tighten the bolts up after each oil change and screen cleaning eventually leads to thread failure and stripping. More so if your sump's mating face isn't flat or in good shape with no gaps when the face is resting on a flat surface.

So what did I do to improve matters you ask? 

Well first of all I made sure that both mating surfaces were flat checking with a metal straight edge and adjusting the offending surface with either a file or a hammer and anvil (for the sump). When satisfied with the fit  I made up brass BSW studs that would be put into the crankcase permanently.  To hold the flange of the sump flat I fabricated a 1/8" thick by 1/2" wide retainer insert that sits in the flange of the sump.
   
This ensures that the sump stays flat when tightened to the crankcase. Retaining everything  in place are new  deep long neck nuts that would be easier to grip with the spanner.  The old paper gasket is not used but a new one will be made from a silicone  baking sheet from your local  Safeway or Tescos. 
   
All this ensures that you'll get a good oil tight seal with no leaks (hopefully) without wearing out your crankcase sump threads by having to resort to over tightening things and having a reusable gasket that should last for a long time before you have to make another.
   
Oil changes should now be easier and not something that gives you concern over bolt and thread failure.

The nuts and studs in the last picture are not installed but put in place just for the pic.

Cheers,
Stephen

Thanks to all forum contributors who have helped me source missing bits for this axle build.  I'm nearly there but just realised that I've got a mismatched set of brake shoes.  These are the 1 1/4 inch shoes and as you can see I've got three correct ones and a stray (stray is third one down in the image and has a canted limb to it - not sure which model it came from but certainly isn't going to work).  Is there anyone out there who can help me find one more to match the set.  Happy to pay of course, so this goes in Sales and Wants too.  Does anyone know what the odd one is from?

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