I have recently been loaned this tappet shown below in my quest for non adjustable Ulster tappets.
   I wonder if anyone can tell me what it is from?

Can any of you guys help me please. I removed the toque tube mounting from my 1935 Ruby ARQ and did not note which way up it was, (assuming it was right before). Should the offset ball be to the lower of the mounting holes or the higher ones? I have searched books ans photos on the interweb but nothing definite is shown for later cars.

I could stick it on and try it but I'm a bit reluctant.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
Barry.

Hi all,
I am a comparative newcomer to the A7 scene. I have a 1933 RP that, until recently, has been running very reliably and well.
However, recently it has developed a problem.
 
SYMPTOMS
It will start with full choke and revs freely, but as soon as I attempt to reduce the amount of choke, the engine runs for a second or so then dies. If I return choke to 100% quickly enough, I can prevent it from dying, and it will rev its nuts-off again.
This revving is accompanied by CLOUDS of white-ish smoke from exhaust.
If I persevere, I can eventually nurse the engine by running on choke, until engine is warm and then it will run reasonably smoothly without choke.
 
ACTION TAKEN
I have swapped Carbs.
Swapped Fuel Pump
Replaced Condenser with a new one.
Checked points and plug gaps.
Cleaned carb(s) repeatedly.
Fresh Fuel.
 
Fuel pump is delivering fuel.
I get a big fat spark.
 
Checked for obvious air leaks, none found.
Checked compression (engine cold, throttle fully open, turnover by starter motor.  Readings were 1=95, 2=87, 3= 100, 4=95 )
 
MY ASSUMPTIONS
Need for choke suggests air leak and/or fuel starvation (but have cleaned carb, changed carb.?)
White smoke suggest Head Gasket (about to take head off and change gasket/inspect head, but wouldn’t have thought this would have cause the erratic running/starting pattern I am experiencing?)
Compression readings suggest nothing too seriously wrong with rings and valves (although number 2 is lower than other 3 cylinders)
 
I must admit to being out of my depth, if changing the head gasket doesn’t cure problem………. I will be out of ideas/experience/knowledge.
 
Any suggestions will be gratefully received.


PS. If I have inadvertently broken some protocol in posting this, I apologise in advance, it’s my first go.


 
 

Hi,
I am looking for a Ulster type hood, and frame assembly.
Of help would be any parts, in any condition or contacts to help in ones construction.
I understand these were once being manufactured but not for some time ?
Thanks for any help.
Brett

Has anyone got a short back axle they want to part with? Hubs and brakes not required, but must have a good crown wheel and pinion.

Robert Leigh

I've been using a bicycle speedometer on the Box Saloon for years now. Halfords cheapest, magnet on the rear wheel and wire connections. It works really well. I need one for the Chummy and now I notice they do wireless ones.  Has anyone tried this and do they work? Or is there too much metal around so the signal gets lost?

does anyone live close to rufford old hall has I own an Austin 7 and snapped the stud when I was replacing the tyre I have stripped it down to the wheel hub but cant get the plate of that holds the stud I have all the tools and the new stud and rivits and will pay for someone to sort it for me also battery is not charging but showing voltage coming out of dynamo thanks david
tel 07931 926550

Have now got a nice set of sports suspension.
Still looking for a 1929/30 chassis.
I would like to build a short wheelbase Cambridge special, and looking for a Cambridge body,or parts, 
Also a proper set of Cambridge wings.
Any help/ leads greatly appreciated

Fitted flashers, with LEDs, to my Chummy, very happy and safer, but when the engine speeds up and the dynamo charges the tell tale light goes out.  What have I done wrong?

I have a Ruby with a standard 6V charging system. I'm finding there is a voltage drop when the headlights are on which is sufficient to dim the rear lights (especially the LED ones which almost go out). Its not an earthing problem.

The voltage at the battery is 6.2v (measured with an analogue multimeter). There is a drop of about 0.2v across my new battery master switch and another drop of around 0.3v across the headlight /sidelight switch. Perhaps another small drop elsewhere giving an insufficient 5.6v at the rear. With the headlights off I get the full 6.2v back again. The voltage measured at the battery itself doesn't ever change.

Several questions. Firstly is 6.2v normal for a fully charged battery? - I always understood that a healthy battery should be nearer 7 volts. It's only a year old and turns the engine over for ever and a day without getting tired. Second question, is a 0.2 or 0.3v drop normal for a switch? Thirdly, if 6.2v is too low, can I adjust the cut out in anyway?

I'm coming from a position of electrical ignorance so simply-worded replies would be appreciated!

Peter Naulls.