I did raise this on the old forum but have some further questions (and the post didn't make the cut for the archive). Thanks to those that contributed earlier. 

After my block destruction I'm aiming to put at the very least an extra block stud at the rear. The engine is a 1928 magneto crankcase. 
The idea is to tap a thread into the crankcase through to the rear cam bearing. The space to fit the stud between the rear of the block and the starter motor casting is really quite narrow. 
My question is whether it's better to use a long stud bracketed from the head (as Pigsty do in this illustration ) or use another route. 
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The alternative route is to bolt a bracket to the bottom of the block and clamp that down to the crankcase. 

Part of me is attracted the "clamp" approach of the bracket technique but the long stud from the head has a simplicity about it and it avoids tapping into the block (I'm quite keen to avoid any risk of weakening the block).

Does anyone have firm opinions either way?

Also in a magneto engine replicating this approach at the front is very hard if you want to run a dynamo. Any creative approaches welcomed. 

Thanks

Charles

I am assisting a club member with the restoration of a Mk1 Ruby, his car has bumpers and a steel panel fitted where one would find a sliding sun roof on the deluxe models. So my question is would the steel panel be a factory fitment or a later modification as suspected, the panel appears to have been professional produced so may have been a std fitment on export versions. I believe that the export fixed head had a steel roof panel so this car may not be a deluxe and therefore the bumpers could be the later fitment, if it should have a sunroof has anyone got drawings that would assist in reproducing a Pytchley sliding roof?

Perhaps as a relatively new owner, I may be ill informed. Replica Ulsters seem to be gaining in price exponentially. I thought the designation was "EA Sports" rather than "EAS". Seems like it is missing a few bits. https://www.gumtree.com/p/austin/1930-au...1266651971

Erich

Spotted today at Chain Bridge Honey Farm...

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

Big Seven wheels too, I think..

Hi all. I have found myself with 2 modified cams. One was given to me be Mark Elder which came from his pigsty 7. The second was reproduced by the austineers. The receipt says 'high inlets'. The exhaust lobes look standard. 

My question is which is best suited for a fast road/race engine. John

SI try the links don't seem to be working from photobucket for me

I have recently started to experience fumes inside my RN box saloon for the first time since I purchased it ten years ago. They cause the eyes to sting and catch in the throat.

The fumes become apparent when the engine is hot and the driver is pressing on - ie, a steady 40 mph for half an hour or more.

I have checked the exhaust, and modified the valve cover plate by blocking off the 3 holes and fitting an extension pipe which extends below the chassis to carry away any by-pass fumes.

The fumes are still present, but seem less than before.

One thing that occurs to me is that they seemed to start becoming apparent when I fitted a 4-blade fan to try to overcome the effects of modern fuel vaporisation, causing the engine to splutter in hot weather when driving slowly or pausing at a junction etc.  I wondered if the greatly increased air being forced over the engine by the new fan could be pushing fumes into the car via the various bulkhead orifices, many of which cannot be completely blocked up. 

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Thank you.

Good morning to all, from Italy!

I need an Austin seven expert but i feel i am in the right place =)

Here we are, after some problems my engine needs a rebuild, and the mechanic found my cylinder block is cracked between the two central cylinders.

Thanks to Jon on this forum i have found a good block, but mine is marked AF2 on the castings and the one for sale AF1.

My casting is 21.1.3 and the other one for sale is 25.7.3

Everything look the same, can anyone confirm they are interchangeable?

Thank you to everyone!

I am having trouble removing the two manifold studs from the block, prior to fitting a HC head to my RP saloon.  I've soaked them with WD 40, and tried using two lock nuts. The block is still in the car, so I can't use a blow-lamp. Anyone have a suggestion?

Alan

Oddly, old Dunlop 4.00 x17 are completely different diameter to modern Armstrong 4.00 x17. 
I need the latter for a spare to match those on the car - one taken off at 'new tyre time' would do...
or I've the Dunlop for a swap if anyone needs a match!
south of London ideally...

I have recently been loaned this tappet shown below in my quest for non adjustable Ulster tappets.
   I wonder if anyone can tell me what it is from?