I'm pretty broad minded, thick skinned and don't mind a bit of banter. However in the past I've seen some quite sharp responses to what one member posts on the Forum, almost a recoil reaction. The one today, post #15 about engine balancing is plainly unpleasant, unnecessary and degrading; I wouldn't like to have read that about something I wrote. I do sometimes find his posts a little difficult to interpret but I respect his point of view - but I don't have to believe him, or anybody else for that matter, or take any notice if I so choose.

Austin Seven FRIENDS is the Forum banner, we should stick to that motto and be constructive.

Disappointed Dave

At the NEC last weekend I had a chat with a firm that is producing an L.E.D. illuminated warning triangle. It is a well built bit of kit and would most likely be far more effective than one that is not lit. It has about a dozen red LEDs which can either flash or be static.

Did occur to me that strapped the rear of a Seven and lit it would be a great safety measure both day and night. However I do realise there are rules governing this sort of thing. I guess flashing is an absolute no-no but would a static lit triangle be OK? Anyone know for certain?

The company is willing to enter into a discount arrangement for clubs.

I am looking to buy a luggage rack that is suitable for a Box Saloon - any condition, in fact the grottier the better in this instance.

What have you?

The RP has a standard Zenith 26VA carb. The spindle has no excessive movement up down and sideways but does move in and out by about 2mm.

I cannot get the idle revs to come down to a sensible level.  I have removed the linkage, the choke arm is not in contact with the throttle arm, the idle screw is not touching the throttle arm. Yet it still is idling at around twice normal revs. It picks up cleanly.

Presumably the butterfly is not closing sufficiently?

Any suggestions?

Hi, 
Has anyone out there got a timing gear inspection cover spare, as apparently I need to replace mine, ( see what's this on forum) I am obviously willing to pay for item & postage. Thanks

Aware of vibration and tapping sound from region of the propshaft/handbrake I started the investigation today. All my other 7s have Hardy Spicer propshafts so this is new territory for me.

The heads of the bolts on the flexible coupling are just striking the handbrake ratchet plates where they protrude a couple of mm forward of the top of the handbrake mounting (marked A in the second photo).

The flexible coupling looks like it has had it to me. Do the assembled company concur? Would a new one be more rigid and hold the bolt heads further away from the handbrake mount?

   


Meanwhile things do not look right at points B and C. The roller at the base of the handbrake only just makes contact with the pivot at B - which looks to me as if it is bent toward the centre of the car. Or is that how it is meant to be?

At C you can just see where it looks as if the shaft has some sort of 'stop' that is split open.  Has a previous owner been guilty of some bodgery/brutality? How should these parts align?


   

Just pondering before I send the parts off. 
Does anyone have qualified opinions on the value of dynamic balancing the full bottom end (crank, flywheel, rods, pistons) vs just the crank & flywheel?
It strikes me that crank whip must impact the value of balancing but how much?
I'm assuming that pistons and rods are statically balanced. 

Thanks 

Charles

Just pondering before I set the parts off. 
Does anyone have qualified opinions on the value of balancing the full bottom end (crank, flywheel, rods, pistons) vs just the crank & flywheel?
It strikes me that crank whip must impact the value of balancing but how much?

Thanks 

Charles

No problems with the mechanical fitting but I have a hopefully simple question regarding the electrical connections for the Accuspark unit. As no one else had asked a single question about this I have to assume I am being dense but wanted to be safe rather than risk blowing electronics.

I am fitting to a 33 box, positive earth.
The instructions state that my current set up will have positive/CB coil connection going to the distributor.

Looking at my Austin wiring diagram it agrees, with CB positive to distributor.

However, what I have is the negative  terminal of the coil attached to the distributor. And I definitely have positive earth, with the positive battery terminal attached to the body.

The Accuspark instructions then go on to show the final set up with the negative terminal of the coil to the new distributor.

So, with my starting point apparently different from that described I am not sure quite  how to proceed.

Having done some checking it seems a coil will work whichever way round it is wired but will give a stronger spark if wired 'correctly' with positive earth having positive coil contact to distributor.

So should I ignore what I have and effectively change round the leads to give a new starting point for the Accuspark to then follow instructions?

Unfortunately I had already removed the old distributor before discovering this so cannot simply reverse the coil contacts on the current set up to see the it works OK before adding in the variable of the new dizzy.
Thanks for any thoughts

Cheers
Andy

Tempted to get one of these for my 4 year old daughter....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GF0rqlgdaHM