Hi everyone , excuse the question but being new to Sevens! The question is what is the valve in the photo for/ do? Where the hole is the outer turns to either close or open the hole, however the outer turns to the open position on it's own and leaks oil. Should it do this or not. Looking at photos of other engines I have not seen one like this. Help appreciated, thanks.

Does anyone know the whereabouts of two '32 Saloons?
MV 2255
PJ 5744
Previous owners have histories on both cars.
Thanks.
Chris.
chairman@a7ca.org

Is anyone aware of a modern headlamp reflector that can be grafted into a Chummy headlamp shell?
If so, where can that be got?

Hi folks, Is there anyone out there who has fitted "Overtaking Mirrors" to a 1932 RP Box Saloon.?
I have difficulty turning in the drivers seat to see if the road is clear to pull out.
If anyone has fitted them then What type would be suitable and where were they fitted and from whom
were they purchased?
Thanks

  ORANGE ULSTER AT BEAULIEU.jpg (Size: 220.82 KB / Downloads: 408)

Hi all

Are any of you the owner of this Orange Ulster at the 750MC Beaulieu meeting in July, or do you know him?

I had a good chat with him, forgot his name and probably forgot to ask him his number, as I can't find it!

regards

Arthur

What is the static timing on a Type 65?  - I assume less advanced than the 1 3/4" / 20° BTDC quoted for the 4.8:1 compression engines, but I have been unable to find the data for my engine, which is the original 65.

The '36 Ruby (C/R of 6:1) is quoted as 3/4" BTDC at the flywheel, which I reckon to be 8 degrees, so I am inclined to start there in the absence of better info.

I am new to Sevens and to manual timing on the steering wheel. I imagine my best course may well be trial and error, but I'd quite like to know where I should be starting from!

Whilst ferreting about in my spares I have come across a prop-shaft for a short chassis with a fabric front coupling and an enclosed Hardy Spicer rear u/j which has a circular drive flange with six 1/4" bolts.
I understand that the early Type 65's had a similar type of prop-shaft but this would of course be longer.  Is it possible I have an Ulster prop-shaft?

A good picture in today's Guardian, any more pictures of yesterday's fun which I was unable to attend?

Hi All
I'm a newbie so be gentle with me. My Ulster replica isn't charging it's battery. I'm running a 12V dynamo. Initial thoughts anyone?
Cheers
Rich

Hi all

I collected my "Ulster" body from Rod Yates last week, and I'm pondering the paint finish.

I've turned the body sideways and upside down whilst musing. What have others done re painting, just the outside and engine bay internals?

What about paint to the underside...this could be simply hand painted black having etched it first?

Looking down into the tail, I wonder is others have fully painted or at least fully etch primed the total interior?

Very early days yet as the chassis hasn't even been blasted, then this will need painting and all components worked on.

I took the front axle to be lowered yesterday, then the lowering of the radius arms will tax my brain.

Now, if lowering the radius arms, say by 60mm or so (what is the recommended drop please?) the arms slope downwards thus when bolting up the lowered axle, the castor angle will have changed as the bolt up flanges now point down at a different angle?

My question therefore, should the radius arm ball joint on the cross member be lowered the same amount, thus putting the bolt up positions/flanges in the same relative positions?

regards

Arthur