I have removed the four large headed slotted screws & their nuts etc from the dashboard, but it is unwilling to come away. OK the oil pressure gauge & sundry other bits are still connected, but there appears to be something I have missed (in the area of the middle of the dash) as it is firmly attached to something!

6th Ed, 1996, good condition (front and rear covers colour scuffed but ring binder holding all pages properly) SOLD

late C35A dynamo - (no "top box"). Was working fine but was dismantled to find one of the wires to a carbon brush broken off. I put a reconditioned one from Tony Betts on the car so this is now in a box and surplus to requirements. email for photos. SOLD

I've just been given a copy of this. 

It's well worth getting hold of if you see one on ebay as it gives all the two and three letter regs and the ranges of numbers issued in each year. I'm not going to offer to post every query this result in... but if you are absolutely desparately needing something for research, pm me.

I am in need of a Lucas CF3 cutout to complete the charging circuit of my Austin Swallow Saloon. I purchased this car in pieces at an estate sale and the cutout is missing. The petcock for the petrol tank is also missing, as is the dash lamp.

Hi,

Does anyone have a paper template for making a lining for the Ruby glovebox?

Thanks.

Does anyone know who ownes an Austin Seven reg RV4387, currently taxed.  You might want to look at the video below to see some of your cars history.

https://youtu.be/-IqYKrcXWT0

If your rod bolts are ARP L 19 Have a read of this.You must not handle them without gloves, moisture includes sweaty fingers . You must also use the correct ARP assembly lube and tighten no more the 30lbs/ft for the 5/16 UNF L19 bolts.A bit of a faff I know, these bolts are probably well over spec for an Austin Seven but follow ARP instructions.

L19®: This is a premium steel that is processed to deliver superior strength and fatigue properties. L19 is a very high strength material com- pared to 8740 and ARP2000 and is capable of delivering a clamp load at 260,000 psi. It is primarily used in short track and drag racing applica- tions where inertia loads exceed the clamping capability of ARP2000. Like most high strength, quench and temper steels – L19 requires special care to avoid hydrogen embrittlement. This material is easily contami- nated and subject to stress corrosion. It must be kept well-oiled and not exposed to moisture. 

Since my car arrived in the US over Christmas, the fuel tap(fuel is drained) has become very stiff. I''ve ordered a spare. However, is there a way to fix a stiff tap? Likely the seals have dried out. Will fuel correct this or perhaps silicone grease? I don't want to find out that a solution didn't work, as the tap is in the foot well above the starter.

Erich in Seattle

For recovering the start of threads damaged by impact etc.

Does anyone have experience of using them?

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Uniburr-Plus-Ex...Sw~otWc3Tq

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2C8CqmjKov4

Please can someone advise the resistance value of the wire wound resistor used for ignition lights. I assume that this would be the same on the SM5 round switch panel as it is on the later ignition lamp fitted to late RNs onward. I have previously shorted the resistor position and used a 12v mes instrument lighting lamp (lowest wattage I could find), which is very satisfactory, but I want to advise a purist.

Robert Leigh