1) The brakes work better. Why? Because winter footwear is heavier and more force can comfortably be applied

2) What to do about water? I am a 'let sleeping dogs lie' mechanic and averse to spending wonga. 

My memory reminds me that antifreeze finds leaks so only have a very weak solution to try and inhibit some corrosion. Now that it is turning properly cold do I drain the car or leave a heater under it? I decide to drain it. Half a freezing hour with a bent coat hanger and finally something starts coming out. Is it water? River silt? Old coffee? Something nasty from the unmentionable? 

Anyway it is out now. So...the next question is do I back flush the thing before filling it up again and encourage it to leak or yet again simply let sleeping dogs lie...

Starts: 17-03-2018
Ends: 18-03-2018

VSCC Herefordshire Trial

Saturday: 12:00-17:30
Sunday: 8:45-14:30

A weekend of Tricky Sections, Sevens are usually out in abundance, along with the usual wide range of pre '41 machinery.
Classes for standard or modified, long and short wheelbase cars.
There are usually a few choices of hills to spectate at on each day these (with OS Map references) are usually posted on the NEWS PAGE in the week before the event, along with spectator instructions and the list of entries.
If you would like to get an idea of hills that may be available and where they are, this is a link to LAST YEARS INSTRUCTIONS, but definitely check this years instructions to be sure which are actually being used this time.

I am in the process of fitting the door cards to my 1933 RP.
The problem I have is that I am having difficulty in shaping the card around the window winder mechanism. I am using 3 mm ply as a starting point but the height of the pressing above the door frame is about 10/12mm. Pulling the ply down this amount is causing a problem.
I have cut out the shape for the metal winder cover and fitted it in place.
How do I pull down this part of the ply to be flush with the door frame?
I enclose photos of a mock up of what I need to achieve.

Thanks Roger

           

Hi 

I am looking for a Diff cage for the heavy axle. I have a Trials special and the Diff pins have been spinning in the cage and badly worn the holes!!

Thanks

Pete

Hi all

I'm trial fitting my lower radiator support panels to the cow horns bolted to the chassis of my Rod Yates body and need a little assistance please.

Presumably on original Ulsters these lower side panels were fitted to the cow horns at specific bolt centres and it would be nice to keep to the same bolt centres if possible, so if anyone has these measurements I'd be much obliged.

Second question, how close to the scuttle should these and the louvred panels above be fitted? If using a rubber bonnet beading section, a suitable gap should be left? Any specific rubber bonnet beading...I have a Baines (Tunbridge Wells) rubber extrusion catalogue, so if one is specified or used by other builders perhaps you'll kindly let me know.

The Rod Yates panels are all over size, so reference points are a little dubious, however, my understanding is that the radiator surround should butt up against the front edge of the cow horns and the side panels trimmed accordingly.

I've attached some photos.


  USP 1.jpg (Size: 199.17 KB / Downloads: 224)

I've placed a grp rad surround for the purpose of the photo, and the bottom of it is shown level with the top of the cow horn, is this correct?

  USP 2.jpg (Size: 253.18 KB / Downloads: 223)

regards

Arthur

Hi - am rebuilding 1930 fabric and want to put back the advance retard and central throttle controls.
I cannot find any where a drawing of the column made up with the tubes (have the one in spares book but this is of unit dismantled)
Has anyone got a drawing of the assembly and even better sizes of each tube.
For safety I may use the manual throttle to run modern high Viz Led indicators via switch at bottom 
Thanks
Olly

The other evening North Herts Centre of the 750C had a really interesting presentation by Hugh Barnes about the work being done on the A7CA Archives.

In the course of the talk Hugh showed some slides of the Austin record cards that, in period, kept track of the changes made to A7s throughout their production. One of them caught my eye as it mentions 'Amal' carbs. I'd not heard of them being fitted to A7s. Nor had other people in the room. Just for interest, does anyone know more? Note the very late date - November 1939. Did it ever happen?

I trust the A7CA will not mind me showing this image of part of the card:


  amal.JPG (Size: 40.72 KB / Downloads: 430)

Has anyone got (or recovered from) recent experience of going through the NOVA process? It struck me that the arcane and disconnected information available needs to be clarified for others.

My experience:

1. NOVA1 notification IS required for reregistering British vehicles that have been off the road and aren't on the system, despite the form's advice notes not suggesting that its for this purpose at all!

2. DVLA will tell you you need NOVA, but won't give you the right reason why, leading you to believe that you are trapped in a morasse that could involve VAT payment and through some mistaken belief that you are importing from outside the UK.

2. NOVA applications can be done online, but advice from the HMRC PRU is that you can't do "our" sort of application online, because the form cannot be appropriately doctored to fit our needs (i.e. of being a UK car).

3. DVLA wont proceed with a V55 application for registration unless the car details are on the NOVA system, so essentially you are providing the same information to NOVA first.

With apologies - the original posting of the entry form was incorrect - the Curse of Copy & Paste had afflicted it.

The corrected and complete form may be found here:

https://tinyurl.com/y7lrqr92

Hi, does anyone know where I can get a drivers side carpet (not rubber) made for the RP. The existing carpet has had its day, and keeps getting caught up under the pedals. I didn't  want to buy a complete set as the rest are still in good condition. Thanks.
Smiley