Rather than continue the topic under gear changes,  I found some old notes from Autocar 30.7.65 which possibly warrant a separate entry. Included drag coefficients for sample cars, including what seemed to be an RN/RP.
Some may remember the other models.

Vauxhall VX4/90 (Victor 101) .526, Ford upright Popular 1948-1960s .493, VW Beetle 1200 .48, Mini .46, Ford Consul Mk 1 .455, BMC 1100 .453, A55 .441, Rover 90 .41, Standard 10 .403, Jowett javelin .387, Porsche 356 coupe .333, Citroen DS .326. 
Austin Seven .608. 
Max power of older cars is usually reached before top speed. However the 47 bhp Consul about 75mph, the 68 bhp Zephyr 81 mph, the 50 bhp Javelin 80.   Three box saloons are generally inferior to station wagons/vans. Other sources for the same cars differed somewhat.
Unstreamlined Citroen Light 15 56 bhp 73 mph. The unstreamlined post war MG saloon but with front mudguards closed and sloping screen 70 mph on 45 bhp.
It is the cross section area times the co efficient which matters

Hi All,

This may seem a pretty basic question. Is the engine number the one on the off side rear of the crankcase which begins with the letter "M"? Is there another engine number to look for?

Best,

Erich

Hi there, 

I was wondering if anyone might be able to tell me whether my block is scrap...

I've took the valve chest cover off to see what the clearances were, they varied from 0-10 thou. 

I took off the head to see if the valve seats were burned and they appears to be ok, coked a little but not blue. 

I then noticed that the no.4 cylinder is very deeply scored from top to bottom, both front and back of the cylinder respectively, where the gudgeon pin is. 

I know nothing about the internals of this engine other than the pistons say 58.00 and measure 2.280 inches (+80). 

Are these Renault 4 pistons? If they are does that mean I've got a 1.5" crank and Renault rods too?

I don't think that I can put this engine back together knowing about these score marks. It was running very under powered and producing a lot of smoke. 

Do I need a new block or could I get away with a liner? Photo attached.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated 

Thanks!

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Here's an old-school question...

The recent thread on gearchange and final drive ratios inspired me to have a rummage through trunk #3.
To my slight surprise I found I have a diff gear set with 45 tooth crown wheel attached, in quite good nick but with no matching pinion. (You can see where this is going...)

I know very well it's not best practice, but even the likes of old Jack was not above mixing CWP gears if needs must, and I have a Nippy as wouldn't say no to a 5.625 ratio.

The simple question - tolerances aside - are the 8 tooth pinions interchangeable betwixt the various crown wheels which used them (41, 42 & 45, to my knowledge)? Or is there some difference in tooth geometry other than simply the number of teeth? I can't help but observe the 45 visibly has a lot of teeth, and it sows the doubt that the 'standard' pinion might be too fat in some way.

Strange feeling undoing grubby bundles tied up with string by my father more than 25 years ago. Can almost feel him peering over my shoulder grumbling 'what are your pilfering fingers doing in trunk #3?".

I need a serviceable back axle for a 1933 RP saloon.  Can anyone help, please?

The car was registered in June '33, so an April or May date stamp on the casing would be a real bonus.

Spotted in this months,May, copy of Classic and Sportscar. The product of a talented guy who works out of a company in Bicester for a customer.
A single crank engine with its crankcase formed from two cases one an Austin 7 the other a Bantam.. plus it's planned to fit a supercharger.


   

I want to replace the chassis plate on my Ruby. It is so badly corroded that the numbers are not visible. What size stamp do i need to use to stamp the numbers?

Stripped down a block today, unscrewing the studs a number of them wobbles as they unscrewed initally I thought they had beem bent.However on cleaning the threads with a tap it was apparent some holes had not beeen retapped squarely, to compensate te studs had been bent to an upright position
Cleaning the block face revealed other bodges, 3 of the retapped holes are about half a hole out.
Is there an engineering drawing available that gives the correct position of the studholes so that this can be set up on the mill and the holes redone at the correct centres.
I know I could just measure the holes in a cylinder head, but a proper drawing would be better.
I could just get another block, but most seem to have issues of one sort or another.
Any help greatly appreciated.

Hi Folks

Though I have had my 1927 Chummy for14 years I have never had the the need to post a thread on this forum as the car has been so reliable and the jobs which cropped up were minor and easily dealt with. Over the past few months on start I have heard a crunching noise from the starter. I finally got round to inspecting the starter ring gear and found it to be in a very poor state

I was hoping I could remove the starter ring but the teeth have been etched into the plate.
Best way forward?
Thanks
John

Tried to put a photo showing the wear but on the preview all I got was reams of code.

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http://richardedmondsauctions.com/catalo.../?lot=1966
what's going on there, then? Was thinking it looked like it's on a long wheel base chassis, but then the engine seems in the right place despite the lights being 6" forward. But it seems to have a 6" compartment behind the rear seat?