I am working slowly but surely through my new top end.
I am trying to do as much as possible to have a finished top end read to swap over so that I have minimal down time.
Learning as I go I shall be buying pistons and sending them with the block for rebore.
This leads me to my latest question. 
Remembering that a little knowledge is dangerous my understanding is that pistons can come with pinch bolt or fully floating gudgeon pins, so I need to know which to order to go with my existing con rods.

From a previous head gasket faiure I took notes that my pistons are marked 11121 plus 40 thou (I did not make any notes as to an RS being present). 

From what I can find referencing 11121, I have found.

Hepolite Pistons Application List:
Reliant Regent 8, 10 & 12 cwt three wheeler van 1948 - 52
Pistons: Alloy 2·20" Bore and 1·13/16" Length - Hepolite Ref. RS11121
Pins: 1/2" Diameter and 1·15/16" Length
Type: SC i.e. fully floating pin retained by SEEGER circlips

So my questions:
Does the 11121 reference therefore mean that I have the fully floating gudgeon pin type or can that reference be on either floating or pinch bolt types and if so is there any way for me to find out what type of pistons/rods I have without taking the sump off and looking up? .
Alternatively I guess I could take delivery of pistons minus gudgeon pins and have the pistons fitted etc and then take delivery of the pins once I have taken the engine apart.

Thanks as always
Andy B

finally started to get the replacement diff ready to go back into the car. Only to find the brake shoes no longer fit.
Diff is the screw type. It appears that the shoe pivots have been relocated at some stage.

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Hi All,

On my Ulster Rep, I currently have a steel cowl and cycle wings. The wings bolt directly to the sides of the cowl, apparently with no ill effects(no cracks or distortion). However, I have a new brass cowl. I have heard that it is advisable to fit a stiffener which arcs over the fan blade and stiffens the cowl and was designed for the 65. Is it advisable to fit this or would simple backing plates behind the wing fixing work as well? In such a case, they won't stiffen the cowl across but would stiffen the are of the fixing. If I need the 65 part, I've heard that Rod Yates makes them. Is he available by email or only phone?

Erich in very hot Seattle!

anyone on here get the Sawyer Special recently on ebay and now sold?
Looked a nice project and will be good to hear what comes of it.

To help with progress on my rat look chummy. 

Can anyone help me by providing a picture of how the front seats should bolt onto the floor on a chummy? 

I suspect strongly the seats I have are not 'chummy' items, nevertheless im missing the connecty bit so some pictures of the pukka items will be of great help. The floor seems to be a bit different from my saloons. And in anycase I know the seats in my RL are ruby ones as they are too wide.

Also can anyone suggest a dimention to set the number plate hoop on the back of the car? Say a dim from the bottom corner of the body to the inside of the hoop. I want to be able to get the spare wheel off, but I want to keep the overhang to a minimum. 

Progress at present. I hope to be driving round in it this time next month



Many thanks in advance.

The Historic 750 Formula race series is having a wonderful year with another full grid expected at Cadwell this Sunday!

As a result we now have a waiting list for Austin 7 based race cars in any condition.
If you have or know of a car gently gathering dust at the back of a barn or garage and is in need of a new appreciative owner do please get in touch

PS 
The VSCC has thrown the gauntlet down to the H750F and will be holding a joint Austin 7 only race at Mallory Park on Saturday 11th August. 
Do come along to watch this (so far...) unique event.......

Charlie Plain-Jones 
Historic 750 Formula - Austin 7 Representative 
Cplainjonesaustin7@gmail.com

All set to leave tomorrow morning for the SA7C rally at Guildtown. Looking forward to the run on Saturday with a bit of trepidation as the steering lock is very restricted by the front wings and any hairpin bends will involve a bit to two stepping. Just for Ruairidh - still need to take the seat squab out to drive it but you can get your feet in without hitting all the pedals at the same time!
 
       

Hi All

Had the rear wheels off the Austin today and noticed a drop of oil at the bottom of the offside brake drum. On removing this I found the break shoes covered in oil which has obviously leaked down the axle casing and past the felt seal at the hub.

Can anyone advise is there a barrier up near the differential that the oil is also getting past (before it makes it to the hub) that I need to renew or is it just get a new felt seal for the hub? Does anyone use anything different than the felt seals? I've heard of people drilling holes in the underside of the axle casing to allow oil to leak out rather than getting as far as the breaks but surely it shouldn't get this far in the first place? Its a 1932-38 "D" type axle

any thoughts?
cheers
Robbie

Bonjour from France,
I am looking for a set of Phoenix con-rods, 1 1/2. I you have, or know one who has, one for sale, please let me know.
Thank you,
Daniel

In deepest, darkest Dordogne today - who’d have thought it!