Just wondering how critical the comparitive weight
of connecting rods are?
Weights in gm. are:
No 1- 359
No 2- 355
No 3- 350
No 4- 342
Given the format of the A7 crank
1+ 4 = 701gm
2+ 3 = 705gm
Should I refrain from removing any metal from these rods?
They will be fitted to a new steel crank and still debating about doing some modest
Lightening of the flywheel before getting the whole assembly balanced.
Not planning on doing any racing or serious trialling
Still plugging away on the alloy wings and tailcover so mechanicals are a pleasant relief!
Could someone please enlighten me to the correct assembly of the drive end of a C35M dynamo? I have found an exploded diagram of a C35A but the assembly is different.
This may not prove to be fresh information but might help others.I bought 6 volt Dynamotor and have been alarmed by reports of wear.Consequently we have refitted the old worm gears from either end of the old dynamo to the new ends on dynamotor.
Surprisingly perhaps we found WEAR on the new worm gear from the distributor end of the dynamotor.Surprisingly this “new” gear is shorter than the original gear.Significantly it is also SMALLER in diameter than the older unit.Consequently we believe the gears are not meshing at correct depth which may be the cause of wear.
The Prescott Weekend organised by the Pre-War Morris people under the superb guidance of Ian Grace, who largely manages it all from Seattle, includes the Cotswold Rally. This year, the Sunday weather was splendid and numbers of cars set off to find their way along the narrow lanes and through the magnificent villages. The Rally is open to all makes of pre-war cars, which this year appeared to include Morris Minors, Cowleys, MGs and Singers as well as Sir Herbert's babies. As well as an award for the best navigation, there is the Lewis & Nicholson Prize fought for by Morris and Austin teams, which in previous years has been won by...errr..well so far the Austins.
This year the highest score earning the HVA statue was achieved in the Chummy of "Team Tinka," Matt and Ben Boroliecki and Judith Durkin, in her first event but of whom we will see much more. The team prize, the Lewis and Nicholson Compass, was once more won by the mighty team of Austins, three Chummys and a Ruby. The extend of the victory was almost embarrassing, well not quite as the smart Longbridge team achieved usual high scores but for some reason the Scuderia Morris largely gave up, finally only one of them handing in their results card.
Perhaps next year Ian will give the Austins a penalty at the start, but never mind, victory should be ours again!
Having searched the threads, I see a few people with later 20's cars have likely abandoned the High Low switchpanel headlight function and just wired dip-switch to the high.
I'd like to know when the first dipswitch came in and what did it look like? i.e. was it the same as the Nippy, sort of cut off conical and strapped to steering column? Or was there ever a dash mount?
My engine assembly proceeds. I got the flywheel bolted on tonight (torqued to 150 ftlbs) so did a first test fit of the block. Studs are all in place and the block is loosely bolted down on a silicone gasket made from baking sheet. With the head (a Ruby one) just sitting on the studs and no head gasket in place it seems the valves hit the head. With a copper gasket there, but nothing torqued down, they clear. That doesn't seem like much clearance to me. How much clearance should there be? I haven't set the valve clearances at all yet of course. Just wound them up to lightly touch as a quick test. Is the only way to tell to have everything torqued down and adjusted?
Of course I don't know how much has been skimmed from the head in the past.
Another question is with the copper head gasket. Does the side with the copper flange wrapped around go to the top of the bottom?
I haven't done the rods and pistons yet but that will be next to check how far they come up the bores. Is it wise to do a test assembly without rings to measure that first?
I have a 1933 RP box.
I recently purchased a folding luggage hamper rack at the Glamis Extravaganza, I noted similar racks on Austin 7 and 10s at the Extravaganza
Having rubbed off the rust, painted it and oiled the connectors, I have made up a mount to attach to the bolts holding the "rear bumper"
(It's not really a "bumper" is it, but it holds my number plate and rear lights)
Anyway, I can see how the rack folds in the middle for stowage and presumably should be held with bungee cords to the spare wheel.
My problem is that when it is the down position, the rear section folds down instead of remaining horizontal with the front section.
An obvious solution is to drill holes in it and fix with bolts, possibly with wing nuts for easy stowage when I'm finished using it.
However, those bolt holes are not in it now, so that cannot be the way it was meant to work.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to secure it when in the down position?
I have attached a photo of it.
Posted by: Rob Allsworth - 23-07-2018, 05:54 PM - Forum: Wants
- No Replies
Hi All
I'm looking for a chassis to buy, this is for a project I'm doing for my degree in Motorsport engineering, I don't mind how poor the condition as I'm a welder.
I would preferably like an short wheel base but anything considered, I haven't got a budget of thousands so the rougher the better, thank you for reading this.
Rob
For those who trawl the centre isle in Lidl, look out for the cork placemats, two for £1.99. They are simply a sheet of 1/8" thick cork measuring 11 1/2" x 17". I reckon one mat will make 4 or 5 tappet chest gaskets.
