Just wondering if this found a new home today and at what price.
I understand it was not a factory built car, and not a replica either, nevertheless it looked lovely,I 
would have liked but have too many other projects and cars.
I definitely would have bought the one at HVA Auctions but the price was so talked up here
that I didn't bother to go and was surprised when it went for £12000

I have been asked to post the following note regarding Peter's funeral from John Debens, PWA7C:

Dear All,

I thought I would let you know of the Arrangements for Peter's Funeral, received this am.

The Funeral will be at St Laurence's Church, Church Stretton, on Tuesday 13th November at 1pm, followed by the Crematorium ( family only ), and then a get-together at The Ragleth Inn, at 6pm.

Flowers are from family, but any donations people may like to give should be for The Air Ambulance Ambulance Service, which was very dear to Peter.

As many will know, Peter particularly disliked fuss, and would not want folk rearranging anything .. however, Sue has advised that maybe saying a little prayer or raising a glass or two would be very nice.

Thanks, John.

Jim writes:

“I have just four re-manufactured 1907 Austin signs which are available from me at £155 each (plus P&P). Would it be at all possible to put a note to this effect on the A7F's website please? (Photo attached) .i am still finding it difficult to access the website!”

   

These are the door check straps that were fitted to the car.
Held to the wood "A" post with pins and running through the steel grommet that fits into the steel A post.
With a metal rod to act as the door check and somehow the curved plate on the A post must have a purpose in holding/stopping the metal rod, but it seems a bit unnecessary as the rod would act against the A post anyway!
Am I missing some fiendish purpose for the curved plate....it is the same both sides.
The rod doesn't seem to latch into it.
David

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Just a question re chassis number location. My RP chassis is stamped as per normal by the left hand rear engine mounting bolt hole,but whilst doing a clean up I discovered another stamping on the right hand chassis rail ending just by the rivet for the front casting. Has anyone seen this on theirs? The stamp format/font look the same as the ,worn, original.

Dear all,

greeting from Italy! I am restoring an Austin Seven special and i would like to do 12V conversion.

I would like to keep the original Dinamo, as it has been rebuilt freshly, but what about the voltage regulator should i use?

If i recall correctly, i had read somewhere about the use of an electronic "modern" voltage regulator 12V to install instead of the original
unit that should fit.

Any suggestion or "way to do it" would be greatly appreciated

Thanks to all the contributors!
Emanuel

This has been discussed before but for those who don't remember my friends Joss, Richard and Ian (who posts here of course) were involved with building a replica (in a VERY short time) of Bruce McLaren's Austin 7 race car for the film recently made.

That body has ended up in Southwards car museum just north of Wellington so I went up to see it last weekend. They put it onto a chassis to display it. I think it has a big 7 front end on it but something looks really wrong. It's like they bent the axle in the middle so the wheels have the wrong camber!

I am sure Ian can fill in more details about the story of it.









Simon

I'm toying with the idea of putting a close ratio gearbox in the Pearl when I replace the engine. The engine will be very much standard spec, though carefully assembled to provide best performance. The idea is that I have a gearbox more suitable for European touring, or at least, touring in hilly areas, and will provide a higher ratio third gear.

There seem to be three sets of gears available - A Super Accessories set, a Nippy set, then an 'intermediate' set that sits somewhere between the 2. Does anyone have any real life experiences of running a touring car on any of the above? I'd like to make the right choice to start with. I'll be sticking with a 5.25 rear axle and it will just be 2 up and luggage..

Thoughts?

is anyone making the baffle box for the Ulster exhaust.

I have one for pattern, but need another for a build going on.

Tony.

Hi All

I'm just about to rebuild the Lucas Type 30 vacuum wiper motor on my RK.  I've thoroughly cleaned it made sure the mechanism works well and have new leather seals ready soaking in oil.

My question is regard the narrow pipes that supply vacuum to the ends of the cylinders.  They don't seem to be a very tight fit into the body of the motor and I am sure they will leak quite a bit of air. Do they need some form of seal? I was thinking of trying to syringe some form of sealant around the junctions.  Any views on whether this is necessary and what sealant to use?

Cheers

Howard