I thought that you may like to learn of my experience with my leaky petrol tank. Being a real newbie and having a weep coming from the side of the tank, not noticed until I put in 2 gallons of petrol and raised the level to the weep point, I searched on line for a repair shop. I found one fairly local who said he could fix it for £100. Well I knew no better and took the tank for soldering. After a week I had to chase a  promised 2 day turnround and finally collected. It looked a rough repair and so it turned out, it still leaked although not from the exact spot that had been soldered. Gary Edwards suggested that I try Tapox as he had a successful experience with the product. I ordered up and removed the tank again. The detailed instructions filled me with trepidation as it seemed it would take a week of various tasks. Wash it out, dry it thoroughly, derust it, thoroughly dry it with a 0.2 - 0.4 bar continous airflow through the tank for 5 hours, without a trace of an electric spark in the vicinity, luckily we had an airbed inflator so with a piece of hosepipe attached and tucked behind the garage door I managed to get through this part. Then fill with the 2 part product, splash it around and drain it out, and then allow to dry for 5 days in a temperature not below 20 degrees C. Well on the coldest week of the winter so far that was a bit of a challenge, how I got away with 5 days in the laundry room in front of the heater unit I will never know! Now to add a pint of petrol and check the colour, all good, no trace of red Tapox. Check for leaks, bugger, still weeping from the side panel. Although Tapox will stop rusting it is fairly thin and does not seem to fill up pin prick holes. The Tapox delivery was however delivered with a complimentary pack of Quick steel 2 part epoxy. I moulded a small amount and applied it to the outside skin of the tank, thinking that this would be better looking like a repair and paint it over, after all the car is old and looks it! Repairs I thought were inevitable and I don't mind too much. So this long saga over, all is good, Quick steel is it appears a very good product, very sandable after setting, and hopefully the inside has been preserved with the Tapox and won't get worse.
P. S. I have no association with this product, I speak only as a user of it.

This from BBC News page...........
Spanish authorities have introduced new driving restrictions in the centre of the country's capital, Madrid, aimed at reducing air pollution by up to 40%.
The tough measures mean motorists will have to test their vehicles' emissions, with the oldest and most polluting vehicles banned from the city centre.
Drivers entering the controlled zone in breach of the rules will ultimately have to pay a fine of €90 (£80).
The move is also to help reduce noise and encourage more cycling in the city.

Full story https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-46403397

It seems that my RN is fitted with an unusual oiling system to the dynamo casing. It is not listed in the parts list book and I havn't seem it in any other pics here or elsewhere. Can anyone confirm this purpose. Is the tap half way along the pipe for switching it on/off for occasional use or should it be left permanently open.      This where it emits from the top of the crankcase on the offside.      This is the tap on top of the dynamo housing.      This where it enters the housing on the nearside.

The Restoration of Vintage and Thoroughbred Cars (Wheatley and Morgan) Batsford 1957 hardback first ed? ex library, so some pen marks and ownerships etc. £7

Colin Pitt: Austin Cars of 20s and 30s (U.S.M) wider than the Seven one recently mentioned £NOW GONE SORRY

Wyatt 1976 Second Ed Second impression, pink dust jacket faded and publisher compliments slip £ NOW GONE SORRY

Clive Ball Seven Years with Samantha First Ed. hardback with dust-jacket 1974 £30

Automobile mag Feb 1988 Freehollow Flier GE Sunshine Saloon part 2 £3 (large letter size)

Association early mags from 70s 80s - I've tried to swap 'em and they are still here! - 7 assorted POSTED to you for £7

A-Z of Car Numbers Tony Hill (including 16 pages of the one and two letter original districts and their dates ranges.. but NOT subdivided into year bands) £ NOW GONE SORRY

all good used condition; post at cost

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Hi All,

I have a magneto engine with the later high compression head (post 1937) in my special. I'm pretty sure the pistons are Renault 4 but I didn't build the engine originally so I'm not 100% sure. I've just had the head off due to a blown head gasket and have started it for the first time. I had the head skimmed to ensure it was flat before putting it back. It now runs on when it's switched off and continues for some time until it runs out of petrol in the bowl (SU down draft and electric pump). It switched off fine before. Can anyone suggest what might be causing this? I didn't touch the magneto or its wiring whilst removing and replacing the head.

Thanks in advance.

Paul.

Hi All, 

There has been some discussion on the forum about this, using milking hose. Does anyone know...

1. What diameter was original?

2. As well, any idea about how to split the hose cleanly? Even a sharp razor knife isn't up to the job and results in a less than straight line. A Fein MultiMaster with a chisel end will cut it easily but not in a straight line.

Erich in Seattle

In an idle moment I stumbled upon this quiz and wasted a few minutes of my life completing it. Struggled a bit with Question 11...


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but fought through to a clean score...


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See how you get on...

https://play.howstuffworks.com/quiz/92-p...-you-learn?

Posted up for Robin....


  Screenshot 2018-11-28 at 12.07.56.jpg (Size: 69.85 KB / Downloads: 532)


  Screenshot 2018-11-28 at 12.06.59.jpg (Size: 64.28 KB / Downloads: 531)


  Screenshot 2018-11-28 at 12.08.18.jpg (Size: 70.29 KB / Downloads: 531)

Wanted ARR Ruby / Pearl rear drop glass as a pattern to get 2 cut, the condition is not important, or has anyone one got one out of a car they could draw around on paper as a pattern?

Some months ago I asked a question about light flywheels and Terry G posted some useful pictures that got my mind humming.
Many light flywheel approaches use modern clutches but I wanted to stick with an Austin clutch. I therefore lightened a late flywheel to a disc and set off to make an extended, light clutch cover.

The net result was that I bought a hefty lump of 6082 aluminium and started making swarf. This " picture essay" shows how I did it.

First thing was mark out the centre and work out how I was going to mount it on a lathe faceplate

   


Next was to drill and counterbore it and bolt it to the faceplate. The eagle eyed amongst you may notice a layer of cornflake packet cardboard on the faceplate, allowing me to machine fully without grazing the faceplate. You may also notice that I had to shave off the corners to get it to turn over the lathe saddle

      

There was a lot of swarf created in this process. Bins full. Once again people may wonder about the boss in the middle - all will become clear....


   

When I'd finished making things round, I then went to the mill. However I kept the aluminium lump on the faceplate and bolted that to the mill table - so I could carry on turning later if needed without losing concentricity.

   

Now the boss in the middle becomes clear. I turned it to snugly fit an original cover plate, allowing me to position all the spring and other holes using it as a jig.

   

When I was sure that all the details were spot milled into place and that the holes for the clutch toggle pillars were in the correct positions I then turned down the boss in the middle and used the age old "chain drilling" process to remove the centre

     

 Next stage was to pick up on all the spotted points for spring positions and mill them to the correct depth.

   

After this back to the lathe and the OD for the starter ring gear was turned

   

Next post coming...(8 picture limit!)