Walked up Snowdon last Saturday — too rainy for Crib Goch so went up the Pyg track. There is a cafe at the top and a railway station although neither of these make the climb up any easier, especially for an 82 year old. But, to the point, I was wearing an Austin Seven hat which prompted a guy to open a conversation with me.  Said he’d recently bought a 1936 based A7 special and showed me a pic on his mobile. Nice car, in need of some TLC —  he is an engineer and in a good position to make a super job of it. I didn’t his name etc but suggested he joins this forum — he lives in Somerset. 
Nice thing about climbing hills is the people you meet!

Charles

In the long brass 'tower', with a screw adjstment at top and the removeable jet section at base, the latter is firmly not showing light when viewing through the jet. I've been trying to rod it with the smallest wire of a gas nozzle cleaner set (I use them as small files) but it doesn't get anywhere. What could I try next?
I am also missing the bottom gauze which I understand sits there.... to prevent my stated problem. Are there any good solution for the filter effect in that tube?

A nice tribute to this pre war Austin 7 special
 
Spero's streamlined special: a look at the lost White Bird Austin - PreWarCar

   

What was the original size of the center main bearing journal?

Never mind either the quality - or the thickness. Upon dismantling an original distributor, I noticed that the little "brass" rings that trap the HT wires looked to be in a much thicker bronze-like material than the current replacements. And so it proved....

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Hello all - a bit of help regarding the compatability of half shafts would be much appreciated. 

I'm digging through the various parts I have here - I'm looking at using a standard 33-39 'D' rear axle housing but all the half shafts I have measure about 22 1/16" in total (including the ones that came with the D housing) - are these too short or are they, in reality, what is called  22 1/2" in my Douglas Woodrow manual?

Many thanks for any help offered!

I am trying to start a Ruby after some engine work; the starter is turning over easy and there is spark and fuel at least to the carb but no ignition.
I set the tappets on the bench buit wonder if something is wrong and the fuel is not being sucked through.
What is the best way to set the tappets, do I need to start at TDC or can I dive in anywhere as long as I stick to the rule of 9?
Not sure what else it could be but open to suggestions.

I've built up a replacement rear axle for the Ulster but - having almost finished - spotted a potential issue.

At present the rear brake cables run over the top of the rear crossmember through a bushing, then descend to the brake levers - semi-girling - which are at the 6 o'clock position on the backplate.

The new axle has 1" Austin brakes, and the levers are at the 10 o'clock position, thus somewhat higher up.
I anticipate a possible foul between the cables and front lower corners of wheel arches, which sit very close to the springs.

Obviously not insoluble, but I'd be interested to hear how others have dealt with this? (I can't be alone...) 
Is this a 'known issue' with a 'standard' fix?

   
Can somebody identify this Lucas cut-out and fuse box. It's fitted to an RP but I don't believe it's original. Not like a CF or CFR2?

Thanks

Can anyone help with pictures of the construction of the window frame and a pattern  for the wooden piece above the front window or any literature on body repairs for a box saloon