Spotted this on Youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_EXvW60ZUo

Steve Hodgson's recreation of a 1923 works car is for sale: https://www.carandclassic.com/car/C17816...mail-alert

Hi folks!

I am unsure... 
Can I just change the cylinder head without any problems, or are there other things that need to be done? 
Do I maybe need to change the ignition timing, adjust the valves, or something else? Or just screw the other head on... bam, done? Using the correct head gasket is obvious.

If someone could explain this to me, I would be happy.

Thank you very much!
Oliver

I am sure I have asked this before, but I can't find it. Thought I would come back to it in the future - or was that in another life??

Has anyone got advice as to how to re-letter the lights/charge switch on my RN that thinks it's an RP?  Please see appended photo with worn lettering. Obviously it was white letters on black.

Another of those jobs that doesn't need doing, but would improve the look of the dash.

Thanks for looking - any advice greatly appreciated as always.

Dave

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Entry form and supplementary regs are now on the PWA7C website. https://pwa7c.co.uk/event/dave-wilcox-trial-2024

Date of event: Saturday 28th December 2024

Venue: Lockwell Hill Activity Centre, Farnsfield, NG22 8JG

The RP starting handle hangs loose. For my benefit, and that of others, has anyone got pictures of how to effect the cure within the nosecone please?

Good Morning. 

I hope someone may be able to help me with this ?  I'm trying to put together a good Bacon Slicer Starter from two units, and in the process also cure the annoying habit my old unit has of the pinion creeping forward and touching the flywheel ring gear (Ting ting noise)

My question is, should the sprung damping pin, which prevents the pinion from creeping, bear on the bottom of the spiral thread/ groove? or the outside/ top of the groove?  Of the two units I have, one seems to naturally align to the bottom of the groove, and one to the outside. Not sure if this is as a result of mixing up parts from different units. Anyone know which is correct please?

Best wishes,
Robin

Please excuse (another) novice question.

My battery appears to be overcharging. The +ve terminal becomes corroded very quickly and yesterday battery fluid appeared on the casing. With the engine running, the ammeter shows 12 amps.


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I'm assuming the voltage regulator is faulty. I can't see any adjustments on it, is this something easily fixable?


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Any hints on what to look for, or replacing the unit if necessary, would be appreciated. (The car is an AG tourer but most of the mechanicals are 1935 Ruby (I'm told)).

Hi All,

My son and I returned from the 90th Anniversary week and I can proudly say he is now a prewar convert! We have been working on finishing my Ulster Rep. A few things have cropped up. One concerns the rear shocks. The chassis is a short wheel base one, but with the rear axle changed to the wider later one. It was done fairly well. But the shocks are a bit of a dog's dinner. As they came, there were no brass disks and only one spring cup which was on the nut side with the raised portion facing outward. The nut was a nylock. According to Woodrow, there should be two spring cups, with the raised portions facing into the spring, I presume to help locate it. However, when I reversed the one existing spring cup, the ID of the spring was too small to accept the raised portion of the spring cup. So, it appears that I have springs with too small an ID to accept the raised portion of the spring cup. These could be aftermarket springs that are stiffer as the car was once raced, hence the mods with the semi girling brakes, wider rear axle, boxed chassis, etc.

Should I reassemble with the one spring cup reversed as it apparently once worked well, or get new springs and spring cups and assemble as stock. Another question is how much tension on the spring? We've set both at 15 psi.

Erich in Seattle

I always enjoy reading other people's trip reports so I thought I might do a report of my recent trip around Mull for my honeymoon. I'll need to do this in stages to make it a bit more manageable.

I'd long wanted to take an Austin Seven on a bit of a Scottish roadtrip so having trailered the car up for the wedding (about nine hours!) it made sense to make the most of the car being there. Evidently I'd made some right decisions with my choice of wife as she was very amenable to this being how to spend our honeymoon. 

The car in question is my 1934 Box Saloon which I brought about 13 years ago when I'd just started at university. I had it for a while as my main form of transportation at university and it was subject to all sorts of roadside repairs and 'temporary' fixes on a student budget which I've been working through and putting right ever since. It's very tatty, but I think relatively original. 

I did treat the car to an engine refresh courtesy of Ruairidh on the lead up to the wedding to give the car a fighting chance of making it through the day without problems (which it did). Beyond that I only had time to change oils and grease everything, and as the wedding approached I became less inclined to look for problems that would result in me taking everything to bits. 

Day 1: Aberfoyle to Ardanaiseig Hotel - 80 Miles
We had quite a leisurly start to the trip, choosing to stay in a hotel not far outside of Oban so that we weren't having to rush for a ferry. It was fairly grey and damp, but the car was running well and we were treated to some stunning views on the A82:   
   
   
   
   
Having turned off the main road onto a much smaller windier road, it became very apparent that the springs were very much past their best and were struggling with the car relatively heavily laden.
After ten miles or so we arrived at our first stop of the trip - Ardanaiseig Hotel, which was in a spectacular setting next to Loch Awe, and covered the car up for the night. Overall we'd made much better progress than expected and I was definitely enjoying an engine that didn't fill the cabin with fumes.
   
   

Part 2 to follow...