Hi All

I’ve spent the last week or three making new doors for my AD based van.  The old ones were made of plywood sheets and I got very fed up with tightening the hinge screws that went end grain on to the ply!

Here are a few pics of the construction including the home made steam box and jig to get the doors at the correct curvature.


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The original doors were a very poor fit and although the new ones are better I’d like to improve things further.  

Can anyone let me know if the A post on a Chummy is flat or curved?  And what are my chances of replacing the A posts with the body in situ?

This is the driver side A post which varies in thickness between 7/8” at the top to well over an 1” at the lower hinge before reducing back to 7/8” at the bottom. Clearly not correct?


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Cheers Howard

Hi All,

Another question on my Ulster Rep. As it is has been much modified, I am trying to understand what has been done to the handbrake on the car. Obviously lots, as on other bits. Can anyone supply photos of the handbrake linkage on a 1930 chassis. An over head (plan view) and a side (near side view) in detail would be much appreciated. Currently, the, I assume, bearing carrier on the for and after chassis member contacts the handbrake assembly. There are spacers but it seems I need more to space the handbrake to the near side more.

Erich in Mukilteo

Assistance required. Does anyone have photographs of the original interior of a '29 / '31 Mulliner saloon, or can point me in a direction that may help please?
Perhaps I shouldn't mention this, but it's to aid a Mulliner bodied Morris Minor owner.
TIA.
Chris.

Hi All,

Electrical issues are a bit of a mystery for me. First off, my Ulster Rep came with a Morris Minor(postwar) cut out and a 12 volt system. I subsequently got a CF-1(its a 1930 SWB chassis). They CF-1 is missing its metal fuse strip. Are these available?

My second question involves the CF-1 capacity. As it is 6 volt cut out, do I have to convert back to a 6 volt system, or can it be used with a 12 volt system? If the former, I will need to have the dynamo converted to three brush presumably, as well as change the battery and the light bulbs. Will the coil need to be changed as well? Anything else?

Thank you in advance for any help.

Erich in Mukilteo

The intermittent saga of Hilda the RP saloon continues...

The car had been fitted with a new floorpan when it was restored back in about 2005 but they hadn't fitted any bump stops, partly I suspect because the hydraulic brake pipes were in the way. I would now like to fit some, after first moving the brake pipes a bit and also relocating the handbrake mechanism which is mounted on top of the back axle centre case and is hitting the bottom of the car when going over large bumps.

One of the problems is that I don't know where the bump stops should be fitted – it's quite difficult to be sure of the correct fore & aft position by measuring up from the axle side tube. I would be grateful if people with an RP could tell me the distance from the vertical piece shown in the photo to the front fixing hole of the bump stop.

   

Anybody know if there are any centenary sweatshirts still available?

Apparently, this is 'art'. An exhibit at the Turner Prize show in London. Described by the Times journalist as 'a vintage Ford Escort covered with a massive crochet doily'.

Does my chucking an old table cloth over the Austin Seven count as art too?


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I had a small 'incident' at Harewood yesterday. Whilst the car was upside down it seems the dipstick fell out . That explained why there was engine oil all over the place once righted. However, the dipstick is now lost and I have no spare. They are simple to make but before I do that, has anybody got one they don't need?

Steve

Does anyone know if an A7 hub puller is suitable for pulling the hub on a Big 7?

Spotted this on Youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_EXvW60ZUo