I have managed to lose my dipstick.  Yes, yes, I know, how is that possible? What a dipstick!! All you ever do is pull it out, wipe it, put it back in, pull it out again, read it and finally and put it back in again. Anyway, it's gone, and that's all there is to it.

It is for a 2-bearing engine with the dipstick on the offside rear of the crankcase, the sort with a ball top, not a loop.
Has anyone got a spare I can buy please?

In the meantime, I shall make one to keep me going.  Please could someone tell me the length from the crankcase flange to the bottom, and where the level marks are?

Many thanks,
Hanging head in shame.

(I lost the garage key last week but found it eventually in the laundry basket.  Looked there, no dipstick!)

Hi Folks,
I have just fitted one of the new electronic DK4 distributors to my RP which has the manual advance DJ4 type.
Well, all seems fine (so far) but I had to make a couple of 'alterations' to get all to fit properly which may be of help to fellow Seveners contemplating doing the same thing. On my car the DJ dizzy has the condenser towards the block resulting in the bolt of the dizzy advance/retard metal clamp being under one of the cap clips.  I found this bolt too tall to go under the DK4 body so used a 4mm long piece of copper pipe slid down a 1" long, 1/4" bsw bolt to enable the body to slide as before. The advantage of this is to lower the bolt height enabling the new dizzy to fit anywhere rather than rotate the body 90 degrees and alter all the leads (the DK4 body being deeper than the DJ).  The only other alterations are slightly easing the pinch action of the adv/ret metal clamp, removing the green rubber thingy and doubling the two lead lengths to make the wiring look neater.
Worth it? Well the engine seems to run sweeter and I have the advantage of fine truning the timing from the comfort of the driving seat!
Happy days,
Peter.
Sunny Cornwall.

I was reading a 1991 edition of The Bulletin and came across this, reproduced from The Austin Magazine of January 1932. As I have just this issue to deal with I wonder if anyone can shed light on the 'larger nut'?


Question: I find that there is a slight tendency - nothing to worry about in particular - for oil to penetrate from the back axle casing through the hub onto the lining on one of the rear brakes of my 1930 Austin Seven. Though only slight, as I say, I am afraid that this leakage may develop and prevent the brake from acting with its normal efficiency.I have reduced the replenishments of lubricant for the axle, but the oil still seems to get through. Is there any means I can adopt of overcoming this trouble without dismantling the hub or draining the axle?

Answer: Our Service Department can supply a special nut that is designed to act as a further means of stopping any oil that may pass the oil retaining washer in the Austin Seven rear hub. This nut is of a larger size than the axle nut formerly fitted as standard, and when tightened home, makes an oil tight seal with the end face of the hub. By fitting one of these axle nuts in place of that now used on your car, you will no doubt be able to overcome the trouble. When you have tightened this nut home, do not forget to secure it with the split pin.

On the old forum I had a thread running about the rebuild of my special that I managed to roll whilst racing, virtually writing myself and the car off in the process. The old forum search facility is still not working so I am unable to find the thread and post a link. Anyway several people have asked to see how things are progressing, I admit that there have been a few distractions so not a massive amount more has been done but here is where I am now up to. I anyone wants to see the buck and body development process I will have another go at finding the old thread or failing that repost some of the pictures here.


  DSC06277.JPG (Size: 282.92 KB / Downloads: 4331)

  DSC06281.JPG (Size: 280.1 KB / Downloads: 4348)

  DSC06282.JPG (Size: 287.19 KB / Downloads: 4361)

  DSC06283.JPG (Size: 261.71 KB / Downloads: 4353)

  DSC06284.JPG (Size: 249.18 KB / Downloads: 4337)

  DSC06285.JPG (Size: 255.31 KB / Downloads: 4311)

For Sale 1933 Austin Seven RP

Fully rebuilt five years ago. New interior. Rebuilt running gear. Rewired.
Sunroof & opening windscreen.
Used regularly.

For more photos or details contact Paul via elwood1996@sky.com or call on 07391 898298

Price - £8000-

               

could someone tell me what type they are? Been trying to find one to fit from spare bits, and can't!
Might have to buy a few.
thanks

Within the Archive Project, we have embarked on a mini project to curate and digitise the Archive's collection of cine films. This is a request that if you have any that you would be willing to share with the Archive, we would be really interested in hearing from you. One particular strand of this work involves film records of the 1972 Longbridge rally. We would be *very* interested if any of you have some of that tucked under the bed...

thanks in advance...

Morning All,

Just about to fit my twin Hardy Spicer propshaft back into my type 65. 

I have the right nuts / bolts for it (when I find where I've put them!), but my question is, should they have spring lock washers or some other securing measure?

Thanks.

Nick

A 1930 Swallow sold (below estimate) at Hershey's Sotheb6y sale  for $16500 hammer price Reg no VJ 2667,
Chassis 99312
An A40 Dorset "Gasser" hot rod made over $85000!
Each to their own!

Hi all,

Can any of you bargain hunters tell me the best prices you have seen the new replacement starter motors up for sale.

I think they are made by autolight ?

Thanks Tony.