Hi all
1938/39 Back axle now back on Nippy 

Next challenge front axle 
It is a big 7 one and I am trying to get the radius arms off to make it more manageable as need to get king pins out to add spacers to take up vertical movement and to clean up and paint all bits (after shot blasting in cabinet so bits must fit in).
The radius arms have a fork that goes above and below the axle with a bolt right through.  The bolt head is round and has a small cut out that fits around a small peg to stop the bolt turning.....goodness knows why not just an ordinary hex head bolt or why it is "waisted" in the middle.  The bolt is 1/2inch 16 BSF and one has bad teeth so really needs renewing.  However I have been unable so far to shift it.  I have used a hot air gun to heat the axle and fork end and at least the radius arms now swivel, tightly and slightly, on the bolt (note that means the pegs are U/S).  The bolts are therefore seized in the axle.  
I have an induction heater tool and can wrap one of the elements round the axle where the bolt goes through but have no experiance as to just how hot you can make the axle before doing irreparable damage.  I believe the tool would actually heat it to well over red hot fairly quickly (30 to 60 seconds?) 5/16 studs red in 10 seconds!
So question....how HOT should I go.  Hammer and drift on bolt...axle clamped in vice near bolt tried so far.
Can't shift the "cross tube leavers" in the stub axle either so will probably just leave them in and remove cross shaft ball end tapers.

Dennis

Hi all.
Just thought I'd say hello. I'm new to Austin Sevens. Just bought an Ulster replica. Only got it yesterday. Paid way to much but it was love at first sight. Lots to learn. So far so good!
Cheers
Rich

As this is my first post, I feel I should say I bought my first car, a TC MG, in 1964 (I am a NEWcomer!) and now run a 1939 TB.
For some time, I have looked at the trials on Youtube and I find really amazing how all  seem to enjoy themselves and how well these little Sevens perform, even the standard (looking ?) ones.
I have decided to find one and hope I can benefit from your experience.
I am not interested in the trilals only specials, mine must look like a real car: windscreen, possibility I make a hood, a door on wife's side and be open although I am not an anorak. From looking at the ads, my 3 first questions are :
1 - Where do you find the chassis number and the body letters (I printed their list from the Austin Seven's Club Association) ? Is there an other way to find what the car first was ? 
2 - Some re-bores, + 0.070 for instance, seem important, are they ? How much can you go to safely (without shirts) ? What others part wear out  and how to check it ?
3 - Others fitted a Reliant 858 ohv engine, more powerful of course . Does an organization recognize them ? Trials cars must have a little more power than standard , I presume, how do you get it ?

Anything else I should have asked  for a start ?
Remember my only knowledge on Sevens comes from Chris Harvey's book I received yesterday. It'll get better with your help.
Thanks,
Jean from SW France
PS : Is there a website/forum/seller Seven Trials oriented ?

Does anyone know when the windscreen handle changed design I am aware of two types, the difference appears to be where the handle fits to the windscreen see photos below. I am trying to get my windscreen to close properly 1932 RN.

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Those of you who have nothing better to do may have noticed the Gallery button at the head of the page. I am hoping to develop this feature into a meaningful resource for everyone's benefit, and the time has come to publicise what I have done and invite anyone with suitable photos to contribute. The plan is for members to be able to upload a photo to the Test Category, and I will then vet them and transfer to the appropriate category. At the moment I would like to concentrate on 'period' images but if you have something else which you would like to share with a wider audience I am receptive to suggestions. Similarly, if you have suggestions for additional categories, or would like existing categories modifying, just let me know!

I have some items for sale after a rebuild. All items will have standard postage and package added . Photos can be sent of items below:

Sump with washer and plug £7.50
Dynamo inspection plate £2.50
Clutch plate with 3 fingers £10.00
Dip switch in working order £10.00
Started motor switch £7.50
Set of wheel nuts , brass £8.00
DJ4A -21 distributor base with good gear £5.00
Two thumb screws plus spare thumb £7.50
 
Please contact via Club or ring 07824810278 . 

I've just purchased a Klaxet in nice shape. Obviously repainted. It works well. However, one of the terminals is quite loose and I can't properly tighten the terminal nut. Taking the trumpet off, reveals that the interior hasn't been touched in many moons. There is a motor obstructing a screw. The only visible way to get the motor out is by a screw at the back which has one of those odd two pin screws. Possibly, I could use circlip pliers to get the motor out, but is this what I want to do? Will I put my eye out with a spring or stare in disbelief as the hole apparatus explodes into the shop?

Erich

Can anyone provide accurate dimensions and pictures of a genuine RM Saloon battery box? Mine and all others I have been able to inspect seem to have been replaced over the years, I need to produce a couple and if I am making new I might as well make them to the original pattern.

Hi, is it possible to service the rear Dampers/Shockers on the RP without removing the assy from the car, ??

Is anybody still supplying these plates made from Aluminium? I have recently ordered set's from two different suppliers only to be disappointed when stainless steel plates arrived.