Back in March I did the Torbay trial in the Ulsteroid. This event uses some of the hills also used on the MCC Exeter trial, such as Simms and Tipley, along with others of varying severity. I have to say I have no desire to try to get an Austin 7 up Tipley again, some of the holes were horrendous! After a couple of hills the slight click when taking up drive became a nasty clunk and despite being very gentle with things eventually the o/s drive shaft gave up the good fight and all drive was lost after hill 9. Well after a summer of WAY too much work and not enough play, I have finally got the axle off and am in the process of rebuilding it. Having entered class 0 on the Exeter trial (slightly less damaging hills than the main trial, but no Simms) The car also needs a reversing light and map reading light fitting. Father doing the electrics whilst I do the oily bits. the cream crackered shaft can be seen in the foreground.

Light but strong single axle car trailer suit A7 or similar. 10'3" long bed, boarded middle section, spare wheel, jockey wheel plus light board. Only used twice in last 12 months. £950. 

monsdonnet@gmail.com

Worcestershire/Herefordshire border.

This is my first post.  Years ago I rebuilt a special based on a Ruby, I used it as my daily transport for several years untill work abroad and the birth of a son forced it's sale, something that I have regretted ever since. It was without doubt the most entertaining and time consuming car I have ever had the pleasure to own.  My son is now ten and we fancy building a special together.  We are at the planning and parts gathering stage, we can manage most of the bodywork but were wondering if anyone makes cycle wings, preferably in aluminium?  

Thank you, Hamish

I am in the process of recommissioning an RP that has stood for 30+ years.

About a year ago the previous owner filled the rad with water in order to run the engine. Unfortunately he didn't remember that the cylinder head was not screwed down and so ended up with water in the bore/sump. He says he drained the rad and the sump.

When I acquired the car it was a non-starter but it is now running well. It has a new head gasket. The rad level stays constant.

However...

On starting from cold and at fairly high revs there is about 7lbs max indicated oil pressure. On any other 7 I'd expect to see it 'off the scale' on a 10lbs gauge or 20lbs+ on a longer scale gauge.

After a few minutes running, when I pull the dipstick I find the oil is 'frothy', as show in the photo. It returns to a non-frothy state not long after switch off.

Is this caused by a worn oil pump cavitating the oil?

   

What ho chaps

All of the chassis parts are off and ready to be cleaned. Masses of grease and grime etc, though I steam cleaned it all before.

Now, I've used Gunk and Jizer before, but now need some advice. I've got a Sealey parts cleaning cabinet (type with pump and can also use compressed air), not used it before, but what cleaning agents do any of you recommend?

I don't want to use petrol or paraffin really, but will welcome your comments.

Normally I'm used to very clean parts with my own cars, but going old and vintage now, means dirt/filth/grease/grime!

regards

Arthur

Had a brilliant day with Falcon Motor Club yesterday, at their trial at Kensworth. In amongst the more modern stuff three A7s kept the flag flying - mine, Michael Leete, and Alan Hockham/Simon Fowler. Debs and I romped home to win the non-existent but much-coveted 'Last in Class' award. This is Michael negotiating a tight gate.


  P1090142-2.jpg (Size: 348.94 KB / Downloads: 206)

Pics and a short video here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm8uKBxY

This was 35 quid in Screwfix but I've got a better one now.
Still in box and been used a couple of times over the last year successfully.


http://www.ringautomotive.com/uk/product...ger/RCB206

https://www.screwfix.com/p/ring-rcb206-6...0wodgZoDLA


£15 plus post

was anyone there or able to give me link to the results from last week? 
The website has no details yet and would be interested to know what all the Chummys got to.

Hi all,

I’m thinking of fitting an SU to my car in place of the old bronze Zenith carb. I seem to remember there was a lot of wisdom on the old forum about best size to go for, needle type, spring type etc. However, now that’s gone I’ve not been able to locate any other source of info. Anyone out there got any info they could pass on please?   I’ve got a 1 1/4 “ SU and manifold which I could use, but I think I read somewhere that our cars run best on a 1” or 1 1/8” ?  Any advice greatfully received. 
Cheers, Robin

Hello,

My Dad never quite finished a Hamblin Cadet back in the 1960's, but he would always rather have built a more traditional bodied special, but he tells me he couldn't afford a Cambridge body.

Tales of this plus a copy of Bill Williams book got me interested in cars in the 1980's and between us we've gone on to build a couple of kitcars and two scratchbuilt three wheelers - Dad's still got his 2cv based trike.

Anyway, as I push 50 and Dad pushes 80 I've decided I would quite like to have a go at building a proper Austin 7 special, partly to let Dad contribute to finishing what he started.

If there are any Austin 7 special projects for sale at pretty much any stage of completion I'd be interested to here about them

Ideally would be VSCC eligible, but don't have money to burn, so failing that pre-war Austin 7 eligible - at some point I'd like to try the odd trial

Thanks,

Andrew