someone contacted the Nippy archive with a Nippy rally type undertray that was fitted to his 1934 car now sold.
Its in Sweden... but shout if something of interest and I can send you photo and put you in touch with the owner.

He also has 4 spare wheels, which I'll find out more about.

Afternoon all,

Just received this via FBHVC - should put the cat amongst the pigeons!

https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/sy...idance.pdf

I have a collection of hub spanners - I bought the one below last year and consider it the best of the lot.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Austin-7-Seve...SwzJ5XY9ST

May be of use to some of you.

Would anyone recognise these particular (peculiar) brake levers on the rear of my Nippy? They are approx. 2 3/4" eye to eye. I have not been able to find any reference to them including the Speedex site. Would they be a part of a Bowden cable setup for a pre Girling car that somehow has ended up on the rear? I do have Bowden cable brake on the front with Girling brakes and it seems to be using the longer rear levers from a Girling car.

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I know, I know, we've been over it time and time again, but I'd just like to ask this particular question...

Has anyone ever used fully synthetic oil in an A7 engine? The reason I ask is that I wheeled the RP out of the garage this afternoon and took it for a run, but even with a fully charged battery the starter motor was struggling to turn the engine over. I ended up having to bump start it down the drive because I couldn't even spin it over fast enough on the handle. The sump contents at the moment are 20W-50 multigrade, which works fine in summer, but seems very viscous at freezing temperatures (it was 1°C here today)

Once the engine was thoroughly warm it would start no problem on the starter.

I was thinking that a fully synthetic would resolve the cold starting problems, but would it be suitable for splash feed?

My carburreter is a Zenith downdraft 30 vm-4 and the car is a pig to start. We thought we had traced this to a worn out mechanical fuel pump as the flow was slow. After replacing it with a new one the flow was really good and it seemed better but if left for a few days it is still very hard to start. I have found that if I remove the float chamber and fill it it starts immediately. I have also replaced the flow valve in the top of the float chamber. Any ideas?

Ths topic is of such vital importance to Seven owners it needs t be regularly brought to attention for newcomers, and must appear in the Search function. 

The topic is very well covered under its own heading on David Cochrane’s site.
Note that cracks also occur at the shoulder flange (which is basically the same on replacement arms.) Arms must seat firmly on the left and right edges of the flange and not primarily the middle, and be firmly tensioned.

I dunno what has happened to the Forum. There has not been a dud dynamo, knocking torque tube, wayward front axle, or muddled brake levers for weeks.

I need the front retaining bracket for a Ruby / Big7 bonnet with the hidden hinge (not to be confused with the piano hinge bonnet bracket )

Bit of guidance please.

The windscreen wiper assembly for the RP arrived with me in its component pieces and with a spacer C fractured in half. Repair done and motor tested I am now ready to put it into the car. To save a lot of faff could someone please give me the correct order of assembly using the letters on this image. Taeverso.



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A few years back I was given , by Keith Elliott, a pre-war roll of 35mm
B&W negative which had never been printed!Keith rallied and trialled MG’s
Before the war and owned garages in Edinburgh

The roll of film had interesting RAF images of Hawker Hawk biplanes
Plus a series taken at a MGCC? Trial, Moorfoots? In 1936/37/38?
A big event as Works teams from Allard, M.G., Singer etc were all represented.
In the mix was a nice photo of a Speedy which  I thought I’d share.
Note the Knobblies!!