Hello Austin Seven Friends

This is my first post to this forum. I hope somebody will be able to help!

I replaced the steering wheel of my Ruby ARR with a recoated one. The inner part of the original (old) steering wheel and the new steering wheel does not look exactly the same (see attached photos)

When I reinserted the trafficator switch/inner control column through the new steering wheel into the steering column I could not achieve the gap anymore between the trafficator switch and the steering wheel, thus the trafficator switch moves with the steering wheel. First, I thought that the reason was the new steering wheel which does not look exactly the same inside as the old steering wheel. Then I inserted the inner control column into the old steering wheel outside of the car but could not see out any difference, so the solution must be somewhere between inner control column and the steering column, but where?

Does anybody know how to achieve the gap between the trafficator switch and the steering wheel so that the trafficator switch does not move with the steering wheel? The spare parts booklet shows felt bushes for inner column, top and lower. Are these the solution? If yes, I do not have them and also do not know where to get them...

I am most glad to receive any feedback to solve this problem and enabling me to reassemble by Ruby ARR.

Thanks a lot Christopher

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According to 'Parting Shot' in the current issue of 'The Automobile', Evelyn Ellis' brother Lord Howard de Walden said about Evelyn's 1895 Panhard- 

"Kindly bring a little pan to put under it to catch the filthy oil that it drips".

"Certainly" replied Ellis "if you will bring a big pan for your carriage horses when you visit me"

Cheers, Tony.

Hi All
I've recently bought a 1-1/2" Nippy crank (splash fed) that I intend on putting in the new engine I am building. When I look at it against the old 1-5/16" crank the oil ways and catch scoops that the oil jets aim lubricant at seem very small on the Nippy crank (see photos - Nippy crank with Con Rods attached, 1-5/16" crank without). Is this going to cause me any problems? Do I need to be extra careful about the aim of the oil jets? Has anyone drilled these holes out to enlarge them a little?
All advice gratefully received
Cheers
Robbie

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Can anyone suggest a UK supplier of door hinge shims or shim material?

Thanks,

Matt

   

I am the owner of a battery powered half scale Austin Seven tourer manufactured by David Royle circa 1984. Any information regarding numbers made or contact details of current owners would be greatly appreciated.

   
   

An interesting link sent by a pal
https://www.facebook.com/252679535210401...tion=group

I have been trying to get into this old thread about moving/fitting various sevens into vans and, when using a popular internet search engine, I can find the old forum, read the text but not the photos. On this new platform the search facility refuses to retrieve on the title or variations of the words. Where do I go next?

I have a new set of Seven workshop Pistons at plus .060" new unused £160 or will happily swop for a set at plus .080"

Seeking continuation from "old" forum thread:



http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/s...8&cmd=show

which finished with Ian Williams asking that below...
Can anyone add anything? Ruairidh has mentioned the Austin 12 leather disc very recently, but it's interesting that anything hasn't been remanufactured (and its 4 years since this thread)  - have others made their own and to what spec?

"I agree Jim, as far as I am aware a leather Gaiter will outlast the modern alternative hence my question? I intend to make a leather replacement for my 31 saloon. Can anyone tell us if the original split wooden bobbins were a tight fit on the shaft, or if a sliding clearance existed."

Hi
I am rebuilding 1930 Fabric and am looking to change inlet and exhaust  to SU setup with bunch of bananas exhaust

has any one got ever exhaust / inlet manifold to suit su  or 1 1/8 Su

thanks
Olly