Hi I would appreciate any leads to source a pair of aluminium backplates to better complete the brake conversion of my Austin 7 .i have rang many suppliers and specialist to no avail . I wonder if any members have returned their brakes back to original and may have a pair of aluminium backplates that I could purchase .

My car is a 1930 Ulster rep, so should, as I understand it, have the throttle return spring, BF 26 with the kink in the long end. Two of the cherished suppliers can supply the later spring, but not the one with the kink. Does anyone have a source for the earlier, BF 26?

Hello all,

In my previous life, before my kidneys packed up, I used to do car paintwork. I did a good job at a modest price though I say it myself.  

My "new" Seven although a grand old girl has quite a bit of cracking in the paint, which bearing in mind what I used to do for a living, offends me a bit.

I can't tackle this sort of thing any more.

I'm wondering if anyone can recommend someone in the Norfolk, Suffolk, Camb's area who might be able to tidy her up for me. I'm not looking for concourse, just a reasonable price paint job to make her look a bit tidier in her 80th year on this earth.

Any thoughts, recommendations?

Thanks

John.

Hi all

Passed my test about 5 months ago and started looking at specialist callsic car insurers, it seems the 
Minimum amount of time I can be insured for is 1 year and only one company gave me a quote at roughly 1500. Which is a tad to much for a 17 year old student working as a part time waiter,espically considering this would be driven by me maybe 3 times a year for fun as i have a modern daily car. I would be interested to know if anyone else has had these issues and if they managed to find a way around this?    

Thanks for any help 

Ollie c

Hi everyone.

I have a Lucas SM5 switch panel with a broken wound resistor wire to the ignition warning light.
I'm anxious to keep the original bulb to work from the 6 volt system.

Is there anyone who could repair this by rewinding the resistor ? 

Otherwise could someone with knowledge suggest a way that I might be able to repair it by using a diode or something similar ? I have to add that I am not particularly good with electrical problems or a soldering iron so if someone could carry out the repair that would be the best option. Maybe you could let me know together with an estimated cost please.

Thank you in advance for any helpful replies.

Pete  

Trico Vacuum Wiper - very similar in design to the Lucas variety. Refurbished, full working order and good to go.
£95 post paid.  01664 852172. ulster29@hotmail.co.uk

I was wondering if some kind soul could perchance direct me to images of chassis that have been boxed in a manner that could be described as 'correctly'.  Google tends to turn up Pugilists in Texas if you ask for Austin Boxing.  I am repairing some previous dodgy welding on this one.  Maybe he needed a few more Amps???
Is it best to remove the crossmembers to utilise a single strip?  Should the strip be perforated with lightening holes?  Should crossmembers be similarly boxed over?
I light of the new UK rules coming in, should I avoid this or is that an unnecessary worry?
Thanks
Rob

Attached Files

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UjUnder I know this question has been asked and replied to before but although I made a note of things and kept it with my Austin Seven technical data. Do you think I can find it put it down to age.
My question is how much oil do I put in the gearbox of my 1935 Ruby. It is a 4 speed box. I can't recall if it is half or three quarters  of a pint. I don't want to overfill it and get oil all over the clutch etc. Thank you all in anticipation.

John Mason.

Another silly question.  Bearing in mind Big 7 axle with big 7 radius arms with forked ends fitting above and below axle and bolt through arms/axle (better to resist twisting)
Rods put in axle eyes seen to not line up with each other looking along the axle top.  Obviously a slight twist in the axle.
Looking along from offside, if nearside rod top is slightly backwards from top of offside rod there seems to be 4 possibilities.

1. N/S is in correct position and offside eye twisted slightly forward.
2. O/S in correct position and N/S eye twisted slightly backwards.
3. N/S twisted partly back  AND 4. O/S twisted slightly forward.
It would be easy to hold one end of axle and twist on other end till all lined up but that leads to possibility of both ends being twisted the wrong way compared to where they should be.  

How on earth do you decide where twist is?   

Some thoughts......middle of axle clamped in vice and check top and bottom ridges (i.e. vice jaws) are held vertical and measure incline of each pin in axle eyes then bend each end till pins vertical?    etc.

Dennis

I have posted this on the events page but cannot place the image of the poster. So here it is.

As chairman of the club I'd be delighted to welcome all A7 Friends to the event.