I have mentioned this problem before but never managed to sort out the problem. The carb is a Zenith vm-4 which appears to be in good condition with no worn spindles. It has now got to the state where it will not start at all. I have done a valve grind; there is no sideways movement on the pistons; the compressions are all around 70 when turning the engine over on the starter motor; the timing has been checked again and again and ignition laser indicators on the plugs are all  flashing. When the head was off we checked the camshaft timing which appeared to be correct. but still wont start. Last night when I was doing a last ditch attempt to start it - I forgot to turn the ignition switch on. When I did turn it on and tried it - it eventually kicked into life!
To me this suggests petrol starvation so its back to the carb. on previous occasions when it wouldn't start, I have removed the float chamber - filled it to a higher level than what was in there and then it started. Can anyone help / I am using fresh fuel and priming with the fuel pump lever and its a new pump which gushes fuel out .

hi i am new to a7 ownership so bear with me
i have a zenith 26va on my 37 ruby it seems that  float bowl has a leak the whole outside of the bowl feels wet with fuel so porous after standing of a few days it stops but only because the bowl is empty is this common to the car or do i need a new bowl 
thanks in advance guys

I have for sale a pair of Lucas LB130 headlamps suitable for a 1934-36 Nippy.
They are new using original tear-drop glasses and 'Seven Workshop' reflectors.
Price is £395.00+p+p
Photos on request.
Call 01785 850916 or email stuart.joseph@btinternet.com

I have for sale a c1933 (pressed badge type) box saloon radiator surround.
This is in excellent condition having been re-plated at great expense.
The price is £395.00p plus p+p.
Photos available upon request.
call 01785 850916 or email stuart.joseph@btinternet.com

I know it only takes two to make an auction but just look at how much this Opal made at Brightwells' Bicester sale last week. Lovely patina, but even so, £11,200?!

Lot 267 here:

https://www.brightwells.com/classic-moto...1st-march/


If anyone wants mine for £11,199 do let me know...


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Greetings, my name is Mike and I am from Maryland, USA. I presently have a few British cars. A '57 Anglia, a '63 Minor,  a "65 Herald and a '72 Midget. I am going to make a 650 mi road trip, next month, to look at an ARQ Ruby. Here are the pictures that I was sent:




The car seems to be in pretty good shape, (especially for being 80+ years old), and comes with spares, (including a chassis). It was complete and running in the late 70's. It was parked and partially disassembled for a "freshen" and has sat indoors since. The parts missing in the pictures, (bumpers, instruments and interior etc) are supposedly all there. The owner is aging and needs to sell the property it resides in. My goal would be to reassemble it and fix what is needed to drive the Ruby. No nut and bolt restoration here. 

Any comments about the car ? Are there any deal-ending pitfalls I should be aware of ? I look forward to dragging it home and having you folks help guide me through the process   . TIA for any input, Mike

Hi,

Please could someone describe the correct radiator mounting for the radiator core to the pressed metal mountings. I am talking about the painted radiator cowl models (Ruby, Opal etc).

My radiator has two studs at the base that pass through holes in the supporting plates. Should there be a rubber mounting (similar to engine mounts) that support the radiator to prevent vibration?

Many thanks!

Matt

It would suit what I'm planning if the steering arms could face forward. So the question is; can they be reversed and maintain the correct Ackerman or are forward facing arms available?

Thank you,

John

The front core plug on my Ruby head was leaking, so I removed it and reached into my spares box for a replacement. To my surprise I found it is too small (3/4") and fairly rattles about in the 7/8" bore in my head. (The other plug in the head is 3/4" )

The Seven Workshop only list 3/4" for the cylinder head, so has anyone else come across this? It doesn't look as though the shoulder has been machined out to the larger size.

Ebay has yielded some 7/8" plugs to get me off the hook, but I wondered if anyone has come across this before?

Thanks!

Hi All,

I apologize if this is a noodle head question. I've a got a supply of KLG spark plugs. I use knurled nuts and blade connectors for my ignition leads. The KLGs I have have some material on the lead end that prevents me from getting the blades tight on the plug with the knurled nuts. So I want to run a die down further so I can get them tight. I have read on the net that the thread is M4. Not on these KLGs. What is the thread size of these. 3BA seems to be close but perhaps not exact. Does anyone know?

Erich in still cold Seattle