Well now the winter project is finished.

And it's time to get stuck into the next project, 

This shed used to be nicknamed the gearbox shed, over 200 in there at its worst point. I think I've got it down under 100. Let's hope.

The roof, again is leaking and needs covering again.

Tony.

For sale - 1933 RP for restoration.
Car completely stripped.
Lots of work done but still lots to do.
For further information contact me on 07761400174 or les.sprite@gmail.com

Hi Does anyone know if a 37 Ruby had a interior sun visor fitted when new ?

    Hi All

I am new to the forum and the joys of Austin 7 ownership.

I have recently become the proud owner of an RTC Trials special. The engine was a little smoky but also had clutch issues. So I have stripped it. Compression before was 107-110 psi. Which I thought was probably OK? The clutch issue, violent vibration, was I believe caused by a loose lever adjustment grub screw which meant one lever was considerably lower than the other 2.

The engine has confused me!!

Its a 2 bearing Ruby I believe with a 1 1/2 inch pressure fed crank. From the picture attached can anyone recognise the piston and rod. What I find  surprising is that the bores show little wear, no ridge and within 0.001 throughout but the piston fit to me is very loose 0.007 and ring gap 0.025. Big end shells are perfect and unmarked with part number 2390RA std. However the pistons have a little play on the pin,very slight, which appears to be an interference fit in the rod.  Is there a reason for this fit or is it just poor build quality. I wonder if second hand pistons have been used with new shells and rebore.

It also has larger inlet valves double springs and modified ports. 

Thanks

Pete

For those keen types who like to do their own typography 
On their numberplates, can I recommend 
a visit to www.lineto.com and try out the
LUTZ Headline font. Just type in your reg number and
They kindly email you back an image in 64pt.

Then size to suit your plate for handpainting!
NB there are legal sizes for lettering and spacing.
See the DVLA or other number plate websites.
Usually letters 88mm high x 63mm wide, spacing at 11mm.
These sizes suitable for prewar cars.

Daft fonts are illegal but this one should be OK.
Usual disclaimers as regards accuracy apply!

Regards

Bill G
( ex BBC TV Typeface buyer!)

Good evening all.
I'm looking for a little assistance. I'm currently trying to repair a side draught zenith 26VA carburettor, having discovered that a few parts are broken.
I'm looking for an accelerator lever to fit to the butterfly spindle, and an air screw.
I'm actually trying to finish a car prior to having it assessed. The owner passed away earlier this year.
Many thanks, Mike.

Wanted 22FZB caburettor or equivalent for 1931 A7

Not wishing to intrude on the former thread, my RP has developed a slight problem where it oils/cokes up the plug on n°3 cylinder. In an attempt to reduce the problem I have changed over from B6HS plugs to a set of hotter running BP5HS. The car is a standard RP saloon with a 37 head and H1 1 1/8" SU carb.

On Sunday 4th we took the car out for the annual winter rally and I had to stop twice to change the plug on n°3 because the car started misfiring. The car also seemed to be a bit down on power, but I put that down to the fact that I had a slightly over average sized co-pilot... 

I have since done a compression test, thinking that it was a bore wear problem - the engine has been +.030 oversize since time mint imperial and had a new set of rings, valves & valve guides circa 2005, possibly a bit earlier.

The results of the compression test are as follows: (cylinders 1, 2, 3 & 4)

Cold:  (psi)  100, 100, 110, 95  (I put the slightly higher reading on n°3 down to the presence of oil in the bore).

Hot:   (psi)   130, 125, 125, 130

So I guess there's not much wrong there.

I will be removing the engine/gearbox when the weather gets a bit warmer because the clutch release bearing needs replacing, at which time I will strip the valves out, regrind and check the seats & valve guides. I suspect that oil is being drawn up the valve stem on n°3 cylinder - when I did the "Col de la Bonnette" some years back there was a valve sticking afterwards but I can't remember which.

Oh yes, one other thing. As I was stripping down the engine prior to the compression test it looked like the piston ion the carb was stuck in the down position, but I can't be sure if that was just down to me working on the engine or whether it had been like that during the run. Mind you plugs 1,2 and 4 were all the right colour. Just n°3 was acting up.

Apparently we're in "La Vie de l'Auto" again too...

Any other ideas?

Val Brookes - who helps maintain the Stadium information and patterns for the GE Register - has contacted the company (with the help of Damian G-T) who made the last batch of enamel badges.

They will make more for the price shown below.

If you are interested contact Val in the first instance through this post and she will coordinate with them, production is due to complete for October 2018.



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  4C8550CE-5C90-43AA-A509-6E1D8788D4B4.jpeg (Size: 72.28 KB / Downloads: 841)

With my special still in the planning stage, I have a blank sheet of paper and would appreciate your advice.

The Austin Seven in common with the Austin Healey Sprite share quater elliptic rear springs and inherent roll oversteer. This I believe is a result of one spring lengthening and the other shortening as the car rolls through a corner. I think this could be eliminated by either an A frame Rose jointed off the chassis cross member close to the torque tube mounting or parallel radius arms. 

I'm sure this problem has been tackled although I cannot find any information.

Thank you

John