The front core plug on my Ruby head was leaking, so I removed it and reached into my spares box for a replacement. To my surprise I found it is too small (3/4") and fairly rattles about in the 7/8" bore in my head. (The other plug in the head is 3/4" )

The Seven Workshop only list 3/4" for the cylinder head, so has anyone else come across this? It doesn't look as though the shoulder has been machined out to the larger size.

Ebay has yielded some 7/8" plugs to get me off the hook, but I wondered if anyone has come across this before?

Thanks!

Hi All,

I apologize if this is a noodle head question. I've a got a supply of KLG spark plugs. I use knurled nuts and blade connectors for my ignition leads. The KLGs I have have some material on the lead end that prevents me from getting the blades tight on the plug with the knurled nuts. So I want to run a die down further so I can get them tight. I have read on the net that the thread is M4. Not on these KLGs. What is the thread size of these. 3BA seems to be close but perhaps not exact. Does anyone know?

Erich in still cold Seattle

    http://www.stilltimecollection.co.uk/detail/19786-events-lord-mayors-show-presentation-demonstration-seminar-places-london-city-tpt-transport-car-automobile-motorcar-vintage-1922-austin-7-seven.html

from another photo, XO 5852 or 8852

I suspect these are not really for sale, don't have time to work the website out, thought the pictures were interesting of possibly two more cars out there.

Simon

  ScA7C Rally advert 2018.jpg (Size: 104.73 KB / Downloads: 352)

Looking for a small period gauge that will show air pressure, I am running a pressurized fuel tank in the new supercharged single seater and am looking for a suitable gauge which will show 5 to 8lbs of pressure in the fuel tank..... I don't really want to be guessing if I still have enough pressure on the hillclimb when the blower gets busy feeding the oily bits

All options and suggestions welcome !!

Regards 
Greig

Looking for a period boost gauge for our new supercharged single seater. Ideally should read up to about 10 Psi as a rough guesstimate running the blower at engine speed should produce about 6lbs of boost.

Cheers
Greig

I have a Lucas dynamo on one of my cars that has been converted to 2 brush, 12 volt operation. It charges through an electronic regulator and rectifier and has been giving trouble. Despite working on it off and on all week, I can't make it work properly despite changing every component. 

I also have another 2 brush, 12 volt Lucas dynamo on another car that charges through a Lucas RB106 regulator/cut out (Morris Minor type). This has worked without any issues for over 10 years with no attention of any kind. 

I have  a new, old stock, Lucas RB106 cut out/regulator and I'm now minded to use this on the car where the electronic kit is giving trouble. I am aware that when these 2 brush, 12 volt conversions are done, the dynamo is wired differently, internally, depending whether it is to be used with an electronic regulator or a mechanical regulator. Electronic uses a 'Continental' wiring layout, mechanical an 'English, Lucas' layout. 

My problem is that I am a complete electrical/electronic ignoramus and I need specific, easy to follow instructions as to how to change the 'Continental' wiring in the dynamo to the 'English, Lucas' layout. Any advice gratefully received particularly if it doesn't use big words that I won't understand!

Thanks in advance, 

Steve

Does anyone know the value of the summer charge rate wire resistor in the little box atop the dynamo in a 1932 RN?

Many thanks in advance.

i've got an unpleasant rattle on a trailing throttle in a freshly rebuilt blown engine.
The video is here (a bit rubbish but you should be able to hear the noise)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sihsfa02cua9zc...4.MP4?dl=0

Things that I've checked:
The crank isn't moving 
Depressing the clutch doesn't alter it
The blower isn't making the noise - uncoupling the blower doesn't stop the noise
The cam isn't moving (checked by removing the dynamo and looking in)
It's not the starter motor touching the flywheel 

Suggestions welcome please before I start stripping it again.

Thanks

Charles