Please does anyone know the diameter of the standard flywheel across the starter ring teeth? 

I am trying to improve performance on my sports engine by changing out the jets in the 30VE1 carb and also playing with the timing. I am wanting to work out where I am in degrees BTDC.

Original carb set up was Main - unknown(!) and Compensation 60, so not having a 90 I am trying an 85 main and a newer 60 compensation jet (haven't got a 55). Slow running stays the same at 60.

Original timing was set up as 1.25" BTDC fully advanced and I have subsequently advanced this a further 5°, so am tipping I'm now around 18° BTDC fully advanced, but want to check this.

Many thanks

Colin

I am going to bin the St. Christopher medallion attached to the dashboard of my Tourer and replace it with a post-it note saying WWRD - which stands for What Would Ruairidh Do.

This powerful mantra is to be used instead of my usual prayer 'perhaps that rattle/stagger etc. will go away if I ignore it'

Finding one Hardy Spicer joint on the Ulster rep a bit lumpy, I purchased two new spiders from one of the cherished suppliers. As I had reported earlier, the old races were a very tight fit, so I eased the openings to allow an easy press fit. At the GB end, everything went together smoothly. At the rear end, assembly on the prop yoke seized the spider. I checked the old spider and races against the new one. The old one, a GKN, measured 2.424 across the races, the new one measures 2.435 across the races. How can I fix this? Had thought about trying to widen the yoke slightly, but that would mean the holes would not be parallel. The keepers only barely fit. Machining the ends of the races does not look like an easy or effective solution. Why the difference and how do I solve this? Should I go back to a fabric and cardan block?

Erich in Seattle

I can never get my 29 Chummy hood to fold down tidily, looking at period photos they seem to go down with the frame Parts laying on top of one another.Mine has obviously benn damaged and poorly repaired/ straightened at some time as it is about 6" high when folded down.
I have spent a lot of time trying to improve it, if I get it to lie neatly when down there are problems with putting it up.

It is obvious the distance between rivet centres is critical 

Does anyone have a dimensioned drawing showing the distances between the rivets that hold it all together, in the alternative does anyone have a Hoodframe for sale at a reasonable price?
There is one for sale on the internet at £650 that seems rather a lot?

Hi 
Austin Reproductin Parts will be at BEAULIEU STALL GREEN 145  USUAL SPOT bottom of green field
email arpmckenzie@hotmail.co.uk for pre orders
Save your self time by making a note of all AUSTIN STALL HOLDERS  NUMBERS So you can find what you need  make a listSee you there 
                        willie 
                          A.R.P. ltd

Hi all 
Does anyone know where I can get an idler gear for a magneto engine

Thanks
Christopher

My starter motor has decided not to start.  I have cleaned the contacts and can see no reason why it should not turn over.  Would there be any point in trying to get some life in it by giving it a short burst at 12v?  Perhaps this would cause a total conflagration - I just do not know.  Any other suggestions would be most welcome.
Best wishes to all,
Anthony
Central France

Has anybody got a spare radiator?
Or a company that make new ones.
The dimensions are width 30,5 cm (12 inch) and height of the lowest part 47,5 cm (18,7 inch) and the thickness 4,5 cm (1,7 inch)

What do people find best for degreasing hubs and brake drums?

I've soaked everything in diesel to get the bulk of the grease off (there was a lot!), but now, of course, the components are still oily.

Burn off the diesel?
Wash in petrol?
Wash in thinners?

Hi, 

I'm replacing the lip seals that have been fitted to the rear axle of my Ruby, back to felt ones.
Do they have to be oiled or fitted as they come.

Thanks

Regards Wayne