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ok thanks, so what are out combined thoughts on weak acid on mazak (i.e. tin, copper, zinc) specifically?
Alloy wheel cleaner seems to be phosphoric.
I'm conscious of some people saying Mazac is porous, whether that makes a difference or not. If it is, then how does float bowl hold fuel?
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Location: North Yorkshire
I've a collection of knackered Zenith S/D float bowls and I've some brick cleaner (dilute Hydrochloric Acid). I'll do a test and report back!
Steve
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you better count them before you put 'em in... just in case
Thankyou!
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
It will certainly fizz! And Don't smoke near it.
Zn + HCl = ZnCl2 + H2
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Location: CALGARY AB CANADA
18-11-2019, 02:57 PM
(This post was last modified: 19-11-2019, 01:58 AM by Steve Bryant.)
You can buy Carb cleaner that is designed to work on all the different metals and with the exception of some plastics and rubbers will not harm any of the materials that are found in carburetors. It is designed to clean surfaces, orifices, drilled passages etc. as the carb parts are meant to be immersed in the cleaner and left to soak for a pre -determined time as described on the instructions. Once finished soaking, the carb parts are washed in hot soapy water, dried with all the holes, jets and orifices blown clear of water residue. The carb usually is as clean as when made. Rust, tar, varnish and some surface oxidation is removed without scrubbing etc. The carb cleaner is reusable many times before it is too saturated with contaminates to be used any longer, then it needs to be disposed of in the correct manner for chemicals.
The brand we use in the shop on SUs, Strombergs, Zeniths and Webbers is a made in USA product - GUNK HYDRO SEAL. Use rubber gloves and in a well ventilated area. It's not cheap but it really works well. Purchase it at any good motor spares supplier.
It is also very good at clean other car related mechanical parts.
Hope this is of help.
Stephen
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Location: Edinburgh/Lothians
Car type: Seven Special
Allendale Ultrasonics sell carb cleaner, as well as a range of ultrasonic baths, it and they realy work.
Use the cleaner diluted as instructed in hot water.
There are a good few sourses of baths, many look the same though prices seem to vary a lot, but not a bad investment if mucking arround with car parts on a regular basis. The smaller ones on ebay are fairly innexpensive.
I've just done some Zenith/Strombergs and a Weber 45 and they look like new. They had been lying tound for years and were needed for new projects. They were very dirty.
Very pleased.
Paul N-M
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My son tells me that phosphoric acid works well on aluminium. He used it on his Suzuki bike engine.
Jim
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Ultrasonic bath - I have just inherited a small one from a clinic. Seeing Ruairidh's comments on solutions, have others got thoughts/experience? And does it do any good for rusty objects?
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Location: NZ
Car type: 1933 Austin 10/4
Jon,
I use warm water( roof collection) with a couple of drops on dishwashing detergent. Mine is Palmolive and I assume you have the same stuff available in the UK. Cheap.
Capacity of my US cleaner is 2 litres and it has a heater you can set temp on. I use 50 to 60 degrees C.
With the timer set to 30 minutes I usually get a good clean inside and out. It does pay to rotate the item differently in the basket at about half way through.
As I understand it the added detergent is not the actual part that lifts the dirt. The ultra sonic does that. The detergent carry’s it away easier.
If you have years old petrol stains then a soaking in carb cleaner, mag cleaner etc would be beneficial before putting in the US cleaner.
I made the mistake of trying some cleaner that had a citric base. The Amal carb came out black!
There is a lot of US cleaner additive recommendations on the internet, some not appropriate for Ali and Mazak based castings.
Gary
Auckland