Introduction, Belgian Ulster rep

[AustinWood]

As a rule aluminium has BSW, steel & iron BSF.

[Dellie]

Thanks, I think I will order a set bolts and nuts of both.

[Erich]

I'm fairly new to Sevens, so by no means as well experienced as others here. One other thread system to have access to is British Association. Most(if not all) British electrics used BA. The dizzy and dynamo use this. It is based on a Thiry thread which is a metric thread developed for the clock making industry in Switzerland. As adopted in the UK, it was rounded off to the nearest decimal. The largest is 0BA and gets smaller as the numbers go up. I think 6 BA is about smallest you'll encounter. The brilliance(IMO) is that like Whitworth and BSF, the crests and troughs of the threads are radiuses, so there is less chance of stress fractures. Model makers still use BA threads with regularity. A final thread(s) is British Standard Pipe which comes in BSPT(British Standard Pipe Tapered) and BSPP(British Standard Pipe Parallel). Drain plugs and fuel and oil lines come with this size. Sorry for the detail, I'm a bit of nut(;-)) for British threads.

Erich in a rainy Seattle.

[Dellie]

It was a busy few few months at home so no real action on the Austin.
I dismantled the engine and there are a few spots I want your opinion on.

This is a small crack, caused by a broken connecting rod.

On the inside it looks like this.


There is a hole in the mounting spot for the starter motor.



The rest are smaller (non) issues and I think normal on a engine of this age.




So what do you think? I don't have the missing piece for the starting motor hole.
Does anybody has tips to close it?

[Dellie]

Hello all,
Is it normal that there are wooden blocks between the chassis rails and the floor of the body?
Or is it normally just bolted to the chassis? Are there dimensions that I can take to compare.

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[Dellie]

The complete (re)build of the previous car was/is to much for me. The chassis didn't had any papers and that is always a uncertainty if it can get on the road. That didn't help to motivate me to put in time and money. Maybe some day I can rebuild a complete car, but it's not for now.

Those things led to searching for a correct chassis with papers that ran. I found one, but still with a body on top of it.
So the plan is to put the Ulster body on this chassis and sell all the other parts, chassis and body.


So this was when we where on our way home.


Dismantle the car with my brother




The bare chassis


The body, maybe somebody recognized the body?



And a fast test fit with the ulster body, which fits perfectly.

[Dellie]

I'm now preparing to fit my body on to the chassis and I have a few questions.
In my other chassis (Ruby) there are holes in the outriggers like this.

But in my new chassis (1929) there are a lot of holes, presumably not original.


Does anybody has the dimensions of the holes in 1929 chassis?

To correctly fit the body, are there dimensions I have to check? At the moment I don't have a radiator so its difficult to put the front correctly on the car.
Or should I wait until the radiator and then fit everything?

Do you know a web-shop where to buy electric wires and connections that look like there correct?

[Ian Williams]

There was a z section bracket fitted to chassis of this era and attached with three rivets, but as a special you could fabricate your own, Chris Gould's book will show you how Ulster bodys were fitted.

[Dellie]

in "A guide to building reproduction Austin Ulsters"?
I could not find in it, or did I look over it?

[Charles P]

in "A guide to building reproduction Austin Ulsters"?
I could not find in it, or did I look over it?

It's called "A Guide to Building Reproduction Austin Ulsters " by Chris Gould.
Available from many sources but here's one link 
https://www.a7c.co.uk/spares.php#bookshop