Chummy engine mounts?

[jboy964]

Hi John, I put mine on the special.

Thanks Dave, that’s what I had in mind.

John

[Zetomagneto]

Hi John, I put mine on the special.

Thanks Dave, that’s what I had in mind.

John

I can’t see the point of putting a rubber under the crankcase foot, it will not insulate noise because the bolt will still in contact at the top, and within the mounting hole.
On the later rubber mounted crankcase you have 3 rubbers, top, bottom, and inner so the bolt does not 
contact the crankcase.Also, as suggested by Bob you are likely to upset alignment around the starting handle nose

[Bill Sheehan]

Hi John, I put mine on the special.

Thanks Dave, that’s what I had in mind.

John

I can’t see the point of putting a rubber under the crankcase foot, it will not insulate noise because the bolt will still in contact at the top, and within the mounting hole.
On the later rubber mounted crankcase you have 3 rubbers, top, bottom, and inner so the bolt does not 
contact the crankcase.Also, as suggested by Bob you are likely to upset alignment around the starting handle nose

Andrew - I'm sure you are correct in theory, but with racing and road use I'm by far not the only one who found it solved the problem every time in practice.   Cheers,  Bill in Oz

[jansens]

Bill, out of interest, which one do you leave loose? I had also always heard you should leave two loose/sprung loaded (I think it says that in one of the green books). I was going to hard mount the one closest to the clutch pedal and the one diagonally opposite but loosely/spring mount the other two. If only one needs to be loose can I do the front two and the clutch one up and leave the rear nearside loose? Mine is the later type with the feet for the large rubber washers.

One my car though I have also boxed the chassis rails and the nose piece so in theory it should flex less than normal anyway.

Simon

[AustinWood]

There's no reason why you shouldn't put a rubber washer on the top as well, backed by a steel penny washer.