Chummy engine mounts?

[jboy964]

What are your thoughts on adding flat penny rubber washers between the engine and chassis on cars without rubber mounts as standard? I need to pull the Chummy engine again to tweak the clutch so now would be an ideal time. I seem to remember something on the old forum about this but cannot find the original post.

John

[Dave Wortley]

I did this on my chummy using some crane rail rubber composition from work. It is about 8mm thick. No idea if it makes any difference but its easy to do.

[Bob Culver]

When tinkering with mounts the clearance of the crank handle casting where it passes thru radiator is often critical. Maintaining  the rear of engine higher may assist provided prop shaft alignment OK.

[Bill Sheehan]

When tinkering with mounts the clearance of the crank handle casting where it passes thru radiator is often critical. Maintaining  the rear of engine higher may assist provided prop shaft alignment OK.

Bob.  Hello, where was your thinking?   A thin penny-sized washer does help and doesn't make a scrap of difference to the crank handle etc clearance.  More important is to leave one mounting-bolt & nut loose, or spring-load one bolt.  For the newbies, this helps the problem of chassis flexing against crankcase and block flexing, usually eliminates oil leakage from the valve chest cover.   Good Luck,  Cheers,   Bill in Oz

[Nick Turley]

What are your thoughts on adding flat penny rubber washers between the engine and chassis on cars without rubber mounts as standard? I need to pull the Chummy engine again to tweak the clutch so now would be an ideal time. I seem to remember something on the old forum about this but cannot find the original post.

John

I always do that on none rubber mount Seven engines.
Seems like a good thing to do to me, it absorbs a bit of the engine vibration.

[Bob Culver]

Hi Bill

It specifically states beween engine and chassis which must raise engine. Washers or springs above enable twist but make little difference to vibration. If just cut from thin car tube may not make much difference, but not all cars are perfectly restored with original clearance around crankcase projection.

[David.H]

When tinkering with mounts the clearance of the crank handle casting where it passes thru radiator is often critical. Maintaining  the rear of engine higher may assist provided prop shaft alignment OK.

Bob.  Hello, where was your thinking?   A thin penny-sized washer does help and doesn't make a scrap of difference to the crank handle etc clearance.  More important is to leave one mounting-bolt & nut loose, or spring-load one bolt.  For the newbies, this helps the problem of chassis flexing against crankcase and block flexing, usually eliminates oil leakage from the valve chest cover.   Good Luck,  Cheers,   Bill in Oz

Perhaps that is why on my 1927/8 Chummy the N/S front bolt is missing! Doesn't appear (at first poke!) that the hole goes all the way through either.....

[jboy964]

When tinkering with mounts the clearance of the crank handle casting where it passes thru radiator is often critical. Maintaining  the rear of engine higher may assist provided prop shaft alignment OK.

Bob.  Hello, where was your thinking?   A thin penny-sized washer does help and doesn't make a scrap of difference to the crank handle etc clearance.  More important is to leave one mounting-bolt & nut loose, or spring-load one bolt.  For the newbies, this helps the problem of chassis flexing against crankcase and block flexing, usually eliminates oil leakage from the valve chest cover.   Good Luck,  Cheers,   Bill in Oz

Just to clarify, yes a thin washer between the engine and chassis rail, nothing else. It is a Mag engine Chummy, no nose cone to be concerned about and the "line of sight" down the starting handle tube seems to indicate that lifting the engine ever so slightly would do no harm, there is room around the rad cowl hole to shim the tube if necessary. Do not think this would be required though.

The reason for my original question really was just to ask if anyone else has done this, if it helps reduce the vibration through the chassis slightly it must help?

As for being a "newbie" Bill I am blushing! I wish I were, bought my first Austin in 1977 and wish I had it now, sadly the little red car did not appeal to my then girlfriend, its days were numbered …

Cheers, John

[Davemayle]

Hi John, I put mine on the special.

[andrew34ruby]

I'm never quite sure about leaving one bolt loose. Logically the chassis will twist both ways at various times. Logically two bolts need to be loose to prevent the chassis twisting the crankcase.