Original ulster engine rebuild

[JonE]

That is really interesting to know about the 10 stud thankyou. So stronger link with case... but also a lot more coolant capacity.

[Charles P]

That is really interesting to know about the 10 stud thankyou. So stronger link with case... but also a lot more coolant capacity.

Coolant capacity? Not sure I've seen that

c

[JonE]

Charles - I was just presuming if the block is physically wider? So is the metal jacket perhaps just thicker for strength? Would be good to see one sectioned in comparison to a standard!

[Charles P]

Charles - I was just presuming if the block is physically wider? So is the metal jacket perhaps just thicker for strength? Would be good to see one sectioned in comparison to a standard!

Just thicker for strength really. 
The later Grasshopper block had improved water flow around the valves and the port face was lower

Charles

[Tony Betts]

Hi jonE.

It's more that the base is larger.

Probably something austin had developed, with having 10 studs. Rather than 8.

Tony.

[Charles P]

Hi jonE.

It's more that the base is larger.

Probably something austin had developed, with having 10 studs. Rather than 8.

Tony.

And no oil jets to leave access for

[Tony Betts]

After a couple days of falling behind, today was a day to catch up a bit.

Though I'd open a new tube of gasket seal, as this is what I used last time. And everything sealed fine.

   

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Most of the repaires and cleaning is done, so it's mainly build up. And settings.

   

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Rods have had a new set of shells.

Pistons fitted etc.

All oiled as fitted.

And everything turning fine.

   

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Sump gause, and sump can be fitted and sealed.

   

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Tappets set at a slightly tight 8 thou across the board, and chest cover fitted.

   

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Head gasket very lightly greased, as I usually do.

And head fitted and sealed.

   

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Could do with at least the engine finished, and ready to fit tomorrow.

Tony

[JonE]

Tony - is that Loctite gasket seal with paper gaskets on all, or some like Threebond which one uses AS the gasket?

[Tony Betts]

Hi jonE,

About the first thing I was tough at high school, (yes I attended). Was never fit a gasket dry.

I use the loctite on all paper gaskets, it's not let me down yet.

For a head gasket, i use a very thin film of grease. 

I'll have to take a picture of the grease i use, it is about 50 years old?

Tony.

[Tony Betts]

Here's the grease I usually use for the head gasket.

It's nice and silky, it doesnt smear. And spreads extreamly thin.

   

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The clutch mainly just needed a clean, as dust builds up from the cast iron linings.

Just wanted to make sure oil hadn't gotten in from turning the engine upwards.

The clutch plate is starting to wear though.

These could do with being made new, but I dont think enough people would buy. To warrant a batch of say 500.

Although 95% of old ones have bowed from heat, are pitted, or the rivets have come loose so the holes are warn.

I think most people just throw an old one in, and dont realise.

The centering tool comes in handy on blind spline clutch plates.

   

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Cam pulley was fun.

Another small problem.

The nut thread had rung out, and no longer held.

Stumped me for 10 mins, as 7/16 whit nuts are not easy to find nowadays.

So once I would an almost as rear TAP, I taped out a 3/8 nut to 7/16ths.

Now sorted and fitted.

   

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Engine is now together,

And waiting for the gearbox, so it can be fitted back in.

   

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Started on the gearbox this afternoon.

The oil was a bit like toffee, so emptied that.

The clutch thrust is more of a problem.

It has a plate in it to take up the movement to the fingers.

This is something that is needed on these early clutch thrust bearings.

But I wish someone would make them with a bit more thought.

As you can see, the fingers end up running closer to the edge. As the fingers wear on the outer clutch plate.

They need to be laser cut, with 3 prongs for the fingers to sit on. Machined to fit the edges. And as important. Heat treated.

But I just dont have time this time round, so I've rotated it. And stuck it back in.

   

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This was the gearbox and thrust is done, and fitted ready to go in one.

   

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The propshaft had a split gate, so I've changed that.

Which put me onto the problem most people have with the gear lever.

As shown below. The wear splayed out. And also the bolt.

For starters, the bolt wasnt really long enough. And with the lock washer holding out even further.

So the wear is right on the tip of the bolt.

   

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I've done this to show how much movement is in the lever.

   

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