Fuel tank removal?

[Bob Kneale]

Just what I wanted to know, I take it its the same for Ruby mk2, my petrol gauge is not working I have checked the gauge which test's out ok and live feed & earth at the gauge, so I am going to drop the tank to check the sender & wiring, unless anyone knows a better way.

Thanks for all replies
Graham in Sheffield

Although this thread is primarily concerned with the mechanics of physically removing the tank, a number of relevant electrical issues have crept in!. I suspect by now you have succeeded in removing the petrol tank, by attacking the 'U' bolt fixings. When you come to putting it back, its a good idea to run a separate earth wire between the sender unit to the earth connection on the back of the petrol gauge. It's very often not the gauge or the sender at fault, but the appallingly bad earth return path that relies on the bodywork/chassis to act as a conductor. The 'genius' who came up with that money saving concept should have been pubicly flogged years ago!
Remember the petrol gauge is not a simple rheostat (as we were probably taught at school) - there is another coil involved.

Good luck with the tank removal etc. you'll find it more dirty than difficult.
Cheers
Bob

[rubyman]

On my 1938 Ruby there is no access under the rear seat to get to the petrol tank sender, so it looks like I will have to drop the tank, but once the tank is removed I think I will make a access hole & cover plate, similar to what was on the Jags I use to run.

[Nigel Ricardo]

On my 38 Ruby someone at some time cut out a panel below the rear seat to get to the sender, it must have been before 1960 as the car had been off the road since then when I bought it.

[Darren D]

Just what I wanted to know, I take it its the same for Ruby mk2, my petrol gauge is not working I have checked the gauge which test's out ok and live feed & earth at the gauge, so I am going to drop the tank to check the sender & wiring, unless anyone knows a better way.

Thanks for all replies
Graham in Sheffield

Have you lifted the rear passenger seat? I found a hole just above the fuel sender unit on my Ruby Mk 1, very easy access to the fuel sender.

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You should have 2 nuts on a U bolt on the side of the tank under the car, between the tank ( end of the tank ) and the inner wheel arch

Thanks for the info Nigel.

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Just what I wanted to know, I take it its the same for Ruby mk2, my petrol gauge is not working I have checked the gauge which test's out ok and live feed & earth at the gauge, so I am going to drop the tank to check the sender & wiring, unless anyone knows a better way.

Thanks for all replies
Graham in Sheffield

Although this thread is primarily concerned with the mechanics of physically removing the tank, a number of relevant electrical issues have crept in!. I suspect by now you have succeeded in removing the petrol tank, by attacking the 'U' bolt fixings. When you come to putting it back, its a good idea to run a separate earth wire between the sender unit to the earth connection on the back of the petrol gauge. It's very often not the gauge or the sender at fault, but the appallingly bad earth return path that relies on the bodywork/chassis to act as a conductor. The 'genius' who came up with that money saving concept should have been pubicly flogged years ago!
Remember the petrol gauge is not a simple rheostat (as we were probably taught at school) - there is another coil involved.

Good luck with the tank removal etc. you'll find it more dirty than difficult.
Cheers
Bob

Thanks for the info Bob. Haven't got round to battling again with the Ruby fuel tank. The family are keeping me out of the garage at the moment, I would live in there if I was allowed.  

Cheers,

Darren

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Is it not possible to use a nut splitter on the four U bolt nuts ? This would leave your U bolt threads undamaged ready for the U bolts be cleaned up and needing only four new nuts and spring washers to finish the job.

To be honest Jeff I haven't tried them yet. I'll purchase a set and try them before getting the Dremel out. Thanks for the advice.

[Charles Levien]

Take a look at the Ruby list of spare parts (it's online these days). There are two U-bolts BE222, two rubber pads BE225, two "dogbone" lock washers BE224 and four nuts BE223.  They are in a position shielded from engine oil so are likely well rusted up.  Access is cramped, so I suggest a Dremel with cutting disc might be a way ahead.

The rubber washers may have originally insulated the tank from ground, but an alternative earth return for the fuel gauge sender is provided by the copper petrol pipe via the pump and engine block.

The filler neck has an angled rubber tube halfway along, held on with Jubilee clips.  You may have to dismantle this in order to wriggle the tank free.

I don't think the Ruby has an access panel for the petrol gauge sender (unless a previous owner added one), too cold to double check at the moment.

Another thing worth noting is that there is a gauze filter in the centre bottom of the tank which shields the pickup pipe.  When/if these have blocked in the past, a previous owner may have used the expedient technique of removing the drain plug and shoving a big screwdriver up through the gauze to restore flow !

Interesting point concerning earth for sender unit via copper fuel line to petrol pump — I struggled to get my gauge working until I realized I had removed this path to earth by fitting an inline fuel filter with rubber tube which, of course, isolates the tank. I do like a fuel filter so have given the sender unit a separate earth to chassis.
There will be a load of stuff in the bottom of tank which can be sucked ou with a vacuum cleaner when the tank is off and completely dry inside. ( perhaps not one from the guy who is balling out to 
Singapore!) 

Charles, in sunny Norfolk

[spannerman]

If using a vacuum cleaner to clean tank out be carefull if there are any fumes in tank they could ignite as most mains VAC's the air goes though the motor to help keep it cool ? And the brushes spark , have seen a bike tank explode this way ??
Luckily nobody got injured ?

[Dave Mann]

Also how to explain to SWMBO how you blew up the vacuum cleaner.

[Pearls not a Singer]

Take a look at the Ruby list of spare parts (it's online these days). There are two U-bolts BE222, two rubber pads BE225, two "dogbone" lock washers BE224 and four nuts BE223.  They are in a position shielded from engine oil so are likely well rusted up.  Access is cramped, so I suggest a Dremel with cutting disc might be a way ahead.

The rubber washers may have originally insulated the tank from ground, but an alternative earth return for the fuel gauge sender is provided by the copper petrol pipe via the pump and engine block.

The filler neck has an angled rubber tube halfway along, held on with Jubilee clips.  You may have to dismantle this in order to wriggle the tank free.

I don't think the Ruby has an access panel for the petrol gauge sender (unless a previous owner added one), too cold to double check at the moment.

Another thing worth noting is that there is a gauze filter in the centre bottom of the tank which shields the pickup pipe.  When/if these have blocked in the past, a previous owner may have used the expedient technique of removing the drain plug and shoving a big screwdriver up through the gauze to restore flow !

Interesting point concerning earth for sender unit via copper fuel line to petrol pump — I struggled to get my gauge working until I realized I had removed this path to earth by fitting an inline fuel filter with rubber tube which, of course, isolates the tank. I do like a fuel filter so have given the sender unit a separate earth to chassis.
There will be a load of stuff in the bottom of tank which can be sucked ou with a vacuum cleaner when the tank is off and completely dry inside. ( perhaps not one from the guy who is balling out to 
Singapore!) 

Charles, in sunny Norfolk

When the tanks out it will be a good time to renew the flex hose in the filler pipe!

[Peter Naulls]

Spannerman is absolutely right, vacuum cleaners and fumes are a dangerous combination. One of my jobs as a young apprentice was to keep the company's spray booth clean - with a dustpan and brush, never with a vacuum. Something I adhere to to this day.

Peter.

[Charles Levien]

Spannerman is absolutely right, vacuum cleaners and fumes are a dangerous combination. One of my jobs as a young apprentice was to keep the company's spray booth clean - with a dustpan and brush, never with a vacuum. Something I adhere to to this day.

Peter.

Yes, of course, err on the cautious side when dealing with petrol tank — basically don’t rush things and let time pass for empty tank to aerate properly. Once tank is off car you can remove sender unit which opens up the tank nicely to venting of any residual fumes. I would say leave a few days for this process to be on the safe side. 
May be useful to know that the sender unit is attached with 3BA screws. These are easy to obtain online and I bought a tap at the same time as some of the screws broke off in the tank and I had to carefully drill out and re tap.
So — Perhaps I was unwise to use a vac and I’m certainly not going to say anything against Peters good advice. It will be tempting though when however much you try and shake the stuff out an enjoying bit remains!

Charles