Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 15 Threads: 6
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Hi guys,
I am in the process of trying to remove the fuel tank on my 1935 Mk 1 Ruby however I have come across 4 very stubborn bolts. I have disconnected the fuel feed and drained the tank but there's 4 bolts (2 either side on brackets) that are covered in rust and are well and truly seized.
I have found 1 bolt head either side under the rear passenger seat but I was expecting 2 either side. Any advice would be great as I am at the point of going at them with a Dremel. Many thanks.
Cheers,
Darren
Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 190 Threads: 5
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Location: Dorset seaside
You should have 2 nuts on a U bolt on the side of the tank under the car, between the tank ( end of the tank ) and the inner wheel arch
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 683 Threads: 17
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Location: The far North East of England
Car type: 1934 Austin 7 AVH Van (in bits & incomplete!), 1936 Morris 8 Series I Tourer
25-01-2019, 01:27 AM
(This post was last modified: 25-01-2019, 01:35 AM by Jeff Taylor.)
Is it not possible to use a nut splitter on the four U bolt nuts ? This would leave your U bolt threads undamaged ready for the U bolts be cleaned up and needing only four new nuts and spring washers to finish the job.
Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 64 Threads: 16
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Just what I wanted to know, I take it its the same for Ruby mk2, my petrol gauge is not working I have checked the gauge which test's out ok and live feed & earth at the gauge, so I am going to drop the tank to check the sender & wiring, unless anyone knows a better way.
Thanks for all replies
Graham in Sheffield
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,421 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
My "stick" is a length of brazing rod with a loop on one end. It's about a foot long, with graduations painted on to represent gallons. It's perfectly reliable and sits in the door pocket until needed.
Graham if you need to check the sender unit you can access it by removing the panel in the floor under the seat. No need to remove the tank (unless of course a Ruby is different to the RP)
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 622 Threads: 19
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Location: Hampshire UK
Take a look at the Ruby list of spare parts (it's online these days). There are two U-bolts BE222, two rubber pads BE225, two "dogbone" lock washers BE224 and four nuts BE223. They are in a position shielded from engine oil so are likely well rusted up. Access is cramped, so I suggest a Dremel with cutting disc might be a way ahead.
The rubber washers may have originally insulated the tank from ground, but an alternative earth return for the fuel gauge sender is provided by the copper petrol pipe via the pump and engine block.
The filler neck has an angled rubber tube halfway along, held on with Jubilee clips. You may have to dismantle this in order to wriggle the tank free.
I don't think the Ruby has an access panel for the petrol gauge sender (unless a previous owner added one), too cold to double check at the moment.
Another thing worth noting is that there is a gauze filter in the centre bottom of the tank which shields the pickup pipe. When/if these have blocked in the past, a previous owner may have used the expedient technique of removing the drain plug and shoving a big screwdriver up through the gauze to restore flow !
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,059 Threads: 109
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Location: Cheshire
Is the rubber mounting included to help ensure that the tank is not subject to high stresses as the chassis flexes?
Colin
