Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 988 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
I had oil leaking from the lip seal profusely. However the flywheel boss was well worn. Felt seals make a very good lap.
It was far from parallel. My local engineering company turned it true and I fitted a speedi sleeve.
With a new lip seal it's been OK ever since. I checked that the oil seal fitted the boss correctly. It was a nice firm fit.
There's very little clearance in the area of the seal and getting it the correct distance into the cover plate is tricky.
I left the cover plate slightly loose then trial fitted the flywheel so that it could find it's centre and also to check that the seal was running on the sleeve.
I only have the original oil breather holes in the tappet cover.
Jim
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 192 Threads: 76
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I know this has been suggested but I believe some of the seal housings don't have the required groove to allow oil to drain back into the sump and the suppliers assume you will file this in yourself.
I bought mine from "Austin7Ulster" and it had the required groove already machined although only at one position which obviously needs to be at the bottom.
My engine had always leaked from the original scroll type seal and the modern lip seal together with a speedi sleeve on the flywheel boss virtually eliminated any leakage.
John.
Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 1,528 Threads: 55
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The temporary solution reveals that not a vast amount of oil is leaking about desert spoon full over 60 miles.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,119 Threads: 111
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi Dave
I have less than that coming from the seal on my van but somehow it gets on the flywheel and coats the starter pinion with oil.
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,340 Threads: 34
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30
Location: Cheshire
Car type: Race Ulster, 1926 Special, 1927 Chummy, 1930 Box
My Ulster has had that same temporary fix for about 30 years, Dave. I first fitted it as an emergency to pass scruitineering sometime in the late 80s. Despite many engine rebuilds and the fact that it never has any oil in it, it seems temping providence to take it off.
Alan Fairless
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 328 Threads: 1
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Location: Bristol
I use the Viton metric seal 48x72x10 as I found the nitrile seal hardens and doesn't like high revs, I use the scroll type cover and machine for the metric seal. A7 components have a seal plate for the metric seal and stock the Viton seal, use the repair sleeve if any doubt about flywheel boss surface. Terry.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 988 Threads: 6
Reputation:
12
Location: Scottish Borders
The early crankcases don't have the drain hole from the rear main housing back to the sump. I think it appeared with the 1-5/16" crank. This needs to be drilled with care to avoid the oil gallery along the back of the crankcase.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,416 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
16-12-2024, 06:36 PM
(This post was last modified: 16-12-2024, 06:36 PM by Reckless Rat.)
I hope you've managed to sort it, Dave. I would be well cheesed off if I had just rebuilt an engine to then find a leak like this. Having to take it all apart again must have been a bougre (french)