Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,337 Threads: 34
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Location: Cheshire
Car type: Race Ulster, 1926 Special, 1927 Chummy, 1930 Box
As far as passenger cars are concerned there is no legislation in the UK that limits the age of tyres. That is partly because the advisory bodies, car companies, tyre companies and the like are unable to give an answer to what constitutes a reasonable safe age for a tyre. Age is a small part of the equation. Far more important is how a tyre is used and stored.
Alan Fairless
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,642 Threads: 23
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Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
I think we all have enough common sense to tell when tyres need replacing.
In addition to lack of tread and cracked sidewalls, there is the problem of the “rubber” hardening, the tyres I took off the box saloon were like Bakelite, thankfully I only used them for low speed towing, however, the tyres on my Velocette are still perfectly serviceable and they must be twenty years old.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,746 Threads: 42
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Location: Malvern, Victoria, Australia
Presumably very old then?
False Economy to use old tyres- hard tyres do not ride well and have very bad brake performance and with Austin 7 brakes you need every bit of help !
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,191 Threads: 71
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Hardly objective, I know, but the ride on my Cabriolet was transformed when I replaced a set of ageing tyres (I had bought the car in 1998 and they were already on it) a couple of years ago for a set of Longstones. Quite remarkable the transformation which I think (in part) is due to the suppleness of the side walls so the tyres play their correct role in the suspension behaviour...
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
They can be straightforward to change. I like to take tyres off from the back of the wheel because it is difficult to avoid a bit of paint damage, and I normally put a bit of old carpet down to work on to protect the outside which is downwards. Inevitably the wheel wobbles a bit when working on it. I also put some rag between the lever and the rim to minimise paint chips. You need to ensure that the opposite side from where you are levering is settled right into the centre of the rim. With a bit of trial and error you will find how far to space the levers for getting the first part of the tyre bead over the rim, and depending on how hard and stiff the tyre is you may find that a third lever is desirable while you hold the originals down. Like everyrthing else experience is useful, but you always start without it! Once one side of the tyre is off the second side is always easier.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,106 Threads: 110
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi Dave
Robert’s advice is spot on. The only thing I would add is to get the tyres warm before you start. A couple of hours in the house if the partner doesn’t mind.
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,400 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
30-09-2024, 12:44 PM
(This post was last modified: 30-09-2024, 12:45 PM by Reckless Rat.)
Always start and finish at the valve and make sure the bead you're levering is fully into the wheel well 180° from where you're applying the force.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,337 Threads: 34
Reputation:
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Location: Cheshire
Car type: Race Ulster, 1926 Special, 1927 Chummy, 1930 Box
If you ask longstones nicely they will probably fit them for you. It’s about 50ish miles away almost as quick as fitting them yourself
Alan Fairless