Rear axle

[Charles P]

If that was welded competently then the weld would have penetrated to the inner and be bonded to it.
It's failed through poor execution. I can't tell if the wavy line of the break means that it's in the heat affected zone or just a bit crap. Based on the penetration issue, I suspect the latter.

Charles

[Steve Jones]

I've done this job a number of times. The first was to the axle on my Trials Car. That was done in 1992 and it's done hundreds of trials since then and is still together. It's lived a very hard life!!

As Stuart says, you need to drill a number of holes each side of the break and plug weld through them into the splint below. After that, weld around the joint as he describes. I usually drill 8mm/5/16" with one 1/4" hole in each 'quarter'. I tap that M8/5/16" BSF and that takes a suitable bolt so as to clamp the axle tube to the splint and hold it all together in the correct place whilst the other holes are plugged. Once that's done, remove the bolt and plug weld that last hole.

Done correctly, it makes a very strong axle. First photo shows the set up ready for welding.

Second shows the axle tube welded (not the same tube as the first photo).

   

   

Steve

[Ivor Hawkins]

Nice work Steve!

[Renaud]

Yes indeed. And the inner tube added is a commercial size?

[Steve Jones]

Yes, 38mm (1.5") OD. I usually use a piece about 8"long for each splint.

Steve