Wire wheel spokes

[Robert Leigh]

Howard, you refer to 'pressed' spokes; I understand that they are normally rolled. Perhaps that is what you mean.

[Bob Culver]

The origianl RP spokes are 7 gauge with threads 6 gauge. These would be cycle form which is less deep than UNF 10.32. I am curious as to exact thread on replacements. 6 gauge spokes look wrong. The original spokes are very robust and carry loads beyond a motorcylce

[Howard Wright]

Hi Robert

Yes.  Rolled, I couldn’t think of the right term as I typed!

Cheers

Howard

[Colin Reed]

Hi All,
I purchased 90 short and 90 long Butted Stainless spokes and 180 nickel plated Steel nipples.
From CWC and they recommended the steel nipples,
I sent them two Samples as they were to fit 16 inch rims
they were very easy to deal with
the cost at the time 3 years ago was 296 pound 

the reason for having them butted was extra strength at the Hub end they classed them 5/7 gauge

Colin
NZ

[IanClayton]

And has anyone ever managed to re-spoke a later bright metal centered wheel without removing the pressed in stainless centre?

[Helennz]

Hi all

New to my Austin 7 1935 - love it but to get it through its next WOF (NZ based road certification) I need to do some spoke tightening/ wheel attention. I’ve done a little bit of asking round but not being overly mechanical or knowledgeable about cars I’m nervous about giving it a go myself. Basically the feedback I have is that I will damage the paint (model was fully restored around 2003ish) but that’s a given-in,  but also that the thread might be rusted inside the spoke/nipple. I’m wonder what the best why to tell if it is rusted in the thread? Will it break when I tighten it? Feel different? Any advice on what to look for?

Thanks a lot!
Helen
New Plymouth NZ

[Robert Leigh]

If the restoration included more work on the wheels than just painting them it may well be that the nipples are not heavily rusted on the spokes. Appearance of paint around the nipples will give a good clue to the situation. I suggest that trying a suitable nipple key or proper fitting spanner on a spoke which needs adjusting will soon reveal whether the nipple is rusted to the spoke. Do not use pliers or a self-grip wrench (Mole) on the nipples. I have found that small BA spanners are a good fit (I forget which size). If the spokes are sound you should be able to turn the spanner up to say 30 degrees without breaking the spoke. Once the nipple starts moving a bit work it both ways to break up the rust in the thread, and maybe apply a bit of penetrating oil, assuming you have already removed the tyre and tube. If you break just a few spokes they can be replaced individually without dismantling the wheel, but some positions will require the new spoke to be bent to get it in place, straightening it before you tighten the nipple onto it. If you do have to get replacement spokes there are three different lengths depending on which position they are to be fitted.

[Bob Culver]

Original spokes are very robust. Replacements may be single gauge and should not be mixed. If an original wheel a donor wheel handy. Nipples can be struck between anvils to crack rust. Small adj spanners can be set to very tight against the metal (not over paint) The spoke should be gripped not just twisted. If the spokes very stretched may not be enough thread. Normally the end cap must be removed to replace long spokes so breakage very inconvenient as the caps are a task to remove. Original spokes are special thread, not UNF 10.32 or similar. I dont know what new nipples are; may not mix.
Many rims have endured crashes and cannot be made to run true just by adjusting spokes.
With a hub in a vice can pass many hours tweaking spokes. Rims must be maintained in the correct plane.
I am not sure of corrct tension. Some maintain can be too tight.
Spokes, as with other ht stressed steel parts, should not be treated with acid rust concoctions.