Sump bolts and Engine Oil

[Old Dave]

Amongst other jobs that need doing is fixing a oil leak which I am sure is coming from the sump - now even losing when not running.

So a new silicone gasket is about to be applied. The sump bolts are fairly new with the elongated washers. When I bought the car it had two sump bolts that had obviously been stripped and it looks as though the holes were tapped out 8mm and bolts with nuts used to apply a nipping force. Another bolt feels "soft" now.

Obviously this will need sorting eventually - is it always an engine out job to use heli-coils or similar?

In the mean time, and I am sure I have asked this before, how much oil does a standard A7 engine need on refill, and what is the amount of oil between min and max on the dip-stick. I have search all my books and come up empty.

All help appreciated.

[Reckless Rat]

Four pints if I remember correctly. Before you fit your new sump gasket make sure the tin sump is properly flat as they can distort. I would always do this job on the bench. Crawling about underneath isn't my thing any more. From the "full" mark about 1/2" below will require about a pint to bring it back up.

The silicone gaskets are fitted dry and cleanliness is important. Clean surfaces down with acetone.

Don't forget the sump bolt directly below the flywheel - make sure you don't mix it up with a longer one...

[Alan]

Helicoiling sump threads is one of those jobs that you could do with the engine in position but it’s a lot easier if you take the engine out. Your choice. I know which I’d do.
A standard sump takes approximately 4 pints.

[Howard Wright]

Hi Dave

As others have said engine out is best, also much easier to fit a silicon gasket when you can clean the surfaces properly.

I never fill my engines to the full mark as I’ve found this creates pressure leaks. I always leave about a 1/4” to 3/8” below the full mark and my three engines remain pretty much leak free.

Cheers

Howard

[Reckless Rat]

Austin Seven RP Engine/Gearbox removal
• Disconnect battery
• Protect front wings/headlamps with old towels/curtains
• Remove bonnet
• Remove bonnet stay complete with horn
• Remove front number plate
• Remove starting handle
• Drain radiator
• Loosen top and bottom hoses at head & water branch
• Remove Radiator shell and radiator complete with top/bottom hoses
• Remove gear lever. Stuff gearbox top cover with paper towel.
• Remove floor mat & propshaft tunnel cover
• Remove bolts securing propshaft to output flange
• Remove clutch lever top (or complete lever from release shaft if you haven’t got a modified floor pan )
• Remove flywheel cover plate
• Disconnect speedo cable from gearbox
• Disconnect fuel pipe from fuel pump.
• Disconnect choke cable and throttle linkage
• Disconnect oil pipe to dashboard gauge from back of crankcase
• Disconnect starter cable from starter motor
• Disconnect starter pull cable from solenoid
• Disconnect secondary earth cable from cylinder head (if you’ve got one)
• Disconnect earth strap from timing case
• Disconnect dynamo cables from dynamo
• Remove adv/retard lever from distributor
• Remove HT lead from coil.
• Disconnect LT lead from distributor
• Remove four bolts holding exhaust downpipe to manifold
• Remove n°3 spark plug & replace with lifting hook
• Remove engine mounting bolts
• Lift unit clear with hoist tilting unit backwards to clear nose piece and throttle linkage
• Push car backwards out of the way and place unit on stand/workmate
• Set handbrake on car once it’s out of the way.
• Replace flywheel cover to prevent something falling in.
• Have a cup of tea for a job well done.

[Alan]

Stuart Rolt once told me you should be able to get the engine out in about 20 minutes. We can argue about that but, Reckless, I disagree with your last point. I always have a beer at that stage.

[Chris KC]

I'm not sure how you've arrived at your diagnosis Dave - you may well be right.
But before I invested energy in curing a sump joint leak, I'd clean the crankcase with brake cleaner and go for a run, and make darn sure it isn't coming from the block joint or tappet cover. 
Oil has a habit of gathering around the sump regardless of which joint it emerged from.

[Old Dave]

Thanks for the advice everyone - much appreciated as always.

Thanks RR for the list of engine out steps, although I do tend towards Alan's final step - I never turn down a nice cuppa. Little milk and no sugar thanks..

[AustinWood]

I don't know what year your car is but on the earlier crankcases some of the sump bolts holes are open into the oil. That makes them prone to leak throigh the sump bolt threads.
The pressed stell sumps we had wre all faulty. They had pin holes where they had rusted through. Thtis caused if an engine is left stanfing for years because water collects in the sump and rusts it. my solution to the pin holes was to drill through them and put a bolt and washer in the hole. I got fed up doing this gave up and bought an alloy sump from Tony Betts.
I've just reconditioned the clutch and have sealed the sump bolt threads, which were leaking,with removable Loctite.

[Old Dave]

Thanks for that Jim.

I think the sump cover-plate is fairly sound. When I had the plate off about 7 years ago I think most bolt holes were closed off, but I am sure one or two were not.

Never having installed a heli-coil, I would be better with the engine out to avoid going too deep. It will have to be a job for another day!!

Chris KC
Thanks -  I will have a good check to see if it is leaking higher up somewhere.