Powerlite Starter Motor

[drewdavis]

I've just bought and fitted one of these units to my post 1933 A7 (as far as I'm aware they only make 2 models for A7s) and I can't make any sense of the wiring diagram they supply. Has anyone successfully fitted one of these starter motors ?

[John Cornforth]

Hi

I haven't fitted one, but have looked at their instructions. The original Austin starter is an inertia type unit, but has no remote solenoid driven by a combined ignition and starter (key) switch as used in the 1950's to 1970's. Instead it uses an older style cable operated high current switch directly mounted to the top of the starter - very simple.

The Powerlite unit is a pre-engaged type which has a built in solenoid activated by putting voltage on the "solenoid trigger" input. The solenoid has two jobs, it closes two internal high current contacts to activate the motor, and it pulls the pinion into mesh.

I think you will need to run the high current cable directly from the battery to the Powerlite to give it a permanent live feed. You will also need to add a starter switch (e.g. push button momentary type) inside the car. Wire this from the battery live to the "solenoid trigger" input of the Powerlite (the supplied short link is not needed). The current draw through this starter switch is much less than the main feed, but it's probably still tens of amps for a brief period. This means the switch needs a good current rating and the wiring to it should not be too thin or long.

I guess if you wanted to keep the original starter knob and cable you could use a spare Austin Seven/Lucas brake light switch mechanically connected to the cable end via a spring, but this is up to your ingenuity and needs to be safely made and mounted.

Wire a heavy duty return cable directly from the starter fixing bolt to the battery.

[Peter Naulls]

Morris 8s and early Minors had a heavy duty pull switch mounted on the bulkhead. Perhaps that would be suitable?


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[Tony Griffiths]

I wondered what the advantages are for one of these https://www.autosparks.co.uk/powerlite-austin-7-starter-motor when original starters can be so easily reconditioned.

[Ivor Hawkins]

Looking at the link it is also the wrong voltage!

[Dave Mann]

It's just so you can fill up all that space under the bonnet and empty your bank account. As Tony says when original motor can be easily reconditioned.

[Howard Wright]

Hi

On that note did everyone know that you can use the case and field windings from a later starter to repair the older 29 to 32 ‘in the car’ starter? Ray Moses has a great article on the Bristol site (originally on the Hereford site)

https://www.ba7c.org/technicalArticles/s...29-32.html

I’ve used this on my van. Thanks Ray!

Howard

[Dave Mann]

That brings back memories of the second RN saloon we got, the starter didn't work because the cable wouldn't reach the massive battery behind the seat but it started on the handle easily. I eventually bought a battery which would fit the battery box connected up the starter and tried the starter which fairly threw the engine over but it didn't start. I swung it and it started easily and tried the starter again it worked well but though the now open bonnet I saw the fan going the wrong way. I fitted a spare I had and some time later at John Platts I asked if they had an starter for an RN, no but we have a 4 speed starter which goes the wrong way. I bought it and swapped over the brush end plates giving me a 3 speed and 4 speed which both went the right way and sold the 4 speed starter.