Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 24 Threads: 10
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Location: Denmark
Car type: Austin 7 Boattail 1931&1929
Hi. I think my engine is running hotter than normal ,95 -99dg c messured at top radiator tank with infrared thermometer
inlet to engine 75 gr.c. The radiator core are from 2011 , not new but only filled with blue antifreeze and demineralized water , I don´t know the what the type is called .It look like zig zag
I know that from new (1929) chummy`s was fitted with honeycomb core
Does anybody know if honeycomb are letting more air through. Temp above is with 26 dg c .
Thanks in adwance Mogens
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,377 Threads: 105
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
I suspect we could have a long debate about how to measure coolant temperature, without gaining much practically.
Does it boil if you try to climb a steep hill? (do you have any steep hills nearby?)
In practice, I don't think it much matters which kind of core you have as long as there is adequate coolant capacity and the cooling passages are all clear.
What can happen, in my experience, is that
(a) the radiator can become restricted due to build-up of limescale etc.
(b) likewise, the cylinder block water jacket can become choked by deposits
© the side water manifold at the cylinder block can become choked with debris and
(d) depending on your specific installation, the radiator hoses can get kinked and inhibit flow.
(d) is easily checked
© is fairly easy to check and fix; but you need to remove the manifold, don't rely on flushing through from the hose outlets
(a) and (b) respond to radiator de-scaler treatment and copious flushing (but I then advise to check © again, as this treatment can cause the side manifold to become blocked).
Finally (b) is best addressed at next engine re-build, by carefully raking out all the block passages with bits of wire etc; or possibly by filling the jacket with citric acid and de-scaling it at a component level. Or both.
There are other factors which could cause your car to run hot - e.g.
- Is the ignition timing correct?
- Do you have the correct fan fitted?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 24 Threads: 10
Reputation:
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Location: Denmark
Car type: Austin 7 Boattail 1931&1929
Thanks for reply Chris KC
Maybe the only problem is that I messure cooling water temp. (when I stop for pee and smoking)
The core are clean as are waterways in block and head
THe problem as I see is that I think the water temo. should be lowered more from top tank to bottom tank.
Yesterday I run 16.3 miles to get some food supply and 1box of beers ,and 10.3L petrol.
Ignition are manual control and and set to 20 dg at full advance before TDC.
I am using a 4bladed fan.
Mogens
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 981 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
If it doesn't boil don't worry.
Jim
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,942 Threads: 557
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Location: Peak District, Derbyshire
Car type: 1929 Chummy, 1930 Chummy, 1930 Ulster Replica, 1934 Ruby
In the experience of many, if in sound condition most 7s run too cool. Summer is the acid test; get the engine up to temperature (a minimum of 5 miles) and then tackle flat out the steepest and longest hill you can find. If it's not boiling at the top, all is well. I live in the Peak District where, for most of the time one is either going up or down. Even with their fan belts off, none of my 7s overheat if kept moving.