Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,348 Threads: 241
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Location: North Herts
04-02-2024, 07:56 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-02-2024, 08:00 PM by Nick Salmon.)
I know there are many threads etc about this so please excuse repetition...
If one wanted to fit a three bearing Ruby engine into an RP - Is it possible, and what mods would be needed?
P.s. This would be with a Hardy Spicer propshaft.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,402 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
If it's any use I have a low frame rubber mounted crankcase (M238100) in my RP and it fits fine, and I use a Hardy-Spicer shaft. Been like that since time mint imperial. A previous owner had "modified" the bulkhead to allow the flywheel cover to pass... You'll not get the engine to go in unless you're a bit brutal, and it won't go in with the cover fitted, you have to do that once it's installed. If you are doing some butchery you might as well open the floor to allow the clutch pedal to pass through without removing it from the clutch shaft (pedal pad removed) it does make things easier.
You will have to change the nosecone as well.
The Propshaft may interfere with the handbrake - it just needs a sharp talking to.
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
05-02-2024, 10:53 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-02-2024, 10:53 PM by Chris KC.)
Nick, I ran my RP for 1000 miles with a 3-bearing engine recently while I was putting together a suitable 2-bearing unit.
The 3-brg engine sits about 5/16" higher at the rear, the main issue I recall was it was rather tight getting it in and out of the car - I had to undo the throttle pedal cross shaft to squeeze it under. And yes, you might need to juggle things like the flywheel cover - but I had no need of a hacksaw, it went together, and the bodywork was untouched.
I had no real issues at the front end and it worked with the rad shell acceptably well. It has been pointed out elsewhere that the angle of the crankcase feet differed, not just their vertical position, so the front is more or less in the same place.
In short it can be done with minor inconvenience but no surgery (- on my car at least).
The Hardy Spicer propshaft is another matter, and is bound to foul the handbrake mechanism. I removed the little "bobbins" which hold it off the chassis member and substituted an assortment of washers which was tweaked until it cleared acceptably. Some trial and error will be needed there. You can also grind a bit off the rivet head which it tends to foul on.
